Oldering (Chris’ Christmas Indulgence)
Added 2024-12-12 00:49:36 +0000 UTCTis the season for self indulgence and what better place to indulge yourself than on a Patreon?
Since you all are forced to hear periodic updates on middle aged bouldering in audio format, I thought it only fair to assault you with video evidence that this is not all in my mind.
The way it works, for those of you unfamiliar, is that you have starting holds (marked by colored tapes) and a finishing hold (marked by the same color tape). Your goal is to climb up using the holds indicated for that route. In the gyms I use in Japan these are mostly colour coded (e.g. you can use all the white holds). The routes themselves are graded by difficulty, usually indicated by the colour of the tape (not the colour of the holds).
In most countries they use a difficulty rating based on V1-15 but in Japan it follows a different system going from Q8-Q1 then 1st - 3rd Dan. This should be familiar to people who have trained Judo or Karate. I’m currently at around Q3 level, by Japan conversion I think this is V2-3 but Japan is a bit harsh in its grades. In any case, still a long way to go! I started in May this year so have been training for just over half a year now.
I find it a very enjoyable physical and mental workout (each route is like a puzzle) and it provides a break from rumination and stress. I’m 42 now and see lots of people in the gyms who are in their 60s, and some who might be older, who are climbing much better than me, so I feel like this is the kind of sport/activity that you can participate in long term. My kids also really enjoy it, so it’s a good family activity.
I realise this is an indulgent, off topic post but this is something I really enjoy and that I think contributes to the ‘balance’ necessary to not be worn down by all the guru stuff that we regularly dig into. It might not be to everyone’s tastes but it suits my personality very well and has replaced the ‘mental break’ space that martial art training used to occupy for me. I’d still like to train grappling but it’s a lot harder to schedule than bouldering and I have some niggling injuries i need to be careful of.
Anyway, the routes in the video are all from the past few months and are pretty representative of my current level. I’m happy with my progress but also realise I have a lot more to work on to get to 1Q! I know some of you here are a lot more experienced than me and no I’ve never tried top-rope or outdoor stuff. Maybe one day but for now I’m content on indoor stuff with nice soft mats!
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Comments
I climb usually 2-4 a week at the minute but there is a gym five mins from my office
Christopher Kavanagh
2025-01-11 11:17:07 +0000 UTCThat was a lot of fun to watch. I miss climbing. You’re already better than I ever got. I climbed at a great gym in Sapporo, but that was nearly 14 years ago. No climbing gyms in remote Australia. 😢
Aaron Holder
2025-01-02 08:50:53 +0000 UTCAh man. This is so inspiring. If I pick up bouldering again I'm blaming you...
Ludwig Schmidt
2024-12-30 01:42:30 +0000 UTCNice sends, since we're the same age how many times a week can you climb/recover? There isn't so much online for us older beginners
Josh Chang
2024-12-23 22:07:31 +0000 UTCGreat suggestion. Controlled, slower movements including placing feet silently is a great way to build control and placement accuracy.
buildinginlawndale
2024-12-18 20:29:16 +0000 UTCCongrats on picking and sticking with the best form of exercise. Looks like you're coming right along. Even a little campus start in there! I was a climber for over 20 years (an instructor most of that) until my shoulders decided to go into rebellion and tell me it was time for me to quit. God I miss it. Still get out climbing moderately with the kids a couple times a year. Hopefully it'll be something you can share with yours.
buildinginlawndale
2024-12-18 20:03:25 +0000 UTCYep pretty much the same idea it sounds like. It is very meditative. Since I stopped climbing, I haven't found an activity that achieves the same state of flow. I think a lot of it though is just having the time to devote to a hobby like that
Bernt Goodson
2024-12-16 00:58:29 +0000 UTCI found that Bjj = chess + climbing Between the two of them, you can scratch the same itch.
Neil DH
2024-12-15 04:48:44 +0000 UTCImpressive!
Leslie
2024-12-14 16:22:30 +0000 UTCImpressive ! You almost had him in an arm bar early on, but he slithered out.
Anjan Sarkar
2024-12-14 15:58:23 +0000 UTCBack in the day… https://youtu.be/yOeGWJ0mZKI?si=TlL-SkWEXLHGyIXw
Christopher Kavanagh
2024-12-14 04:53:35 +0000 UTCNow we need to see Chris do some bjj grappling with Lex "big love" Friedman, Andrew "snake oil" Huberman or Joe "baldy twat" Rogan !
Anjan Sarkar
2024-12-14 04:33:19 +0000 UTCAlso, good form Chris though I'm sure you know you don't need to readjust as much as you do ;) Then again, the same goes for most of us me included. Im always convinced Ill have a better grip after 4 or so shakes 😂
August
2024-12-13 22:57:00 +0000 UTCWouldn't be bad to catch up with Stephan. We have been on his podcast before and had a chat with Phrost back in the day!
Christopher Kavanagh
2024-12-13 22:56:22 +0000 UTCThat's amazing! I watched some coaching video on Twitter and it recommended moving in slow motion almost on very basic routes to become more aware of placement and pulling/pushing/pressure. It works great and is also quite meditative!
Christopher Kavanagh
2024-12-13 22:55:47 +0000 UTCMan the walls are chaotic in there. Looks fun but very different from what we have here in most gyms. American routesetters seem to take themselves a bit seriously and consider it an "art" or something. Like, the aesthetics of the route and wall are important to many of them that Ive talked to, is what I mean. I like the variety here, I say pack it in
August
2024-12-13 22:55:15 +0000 UTCThat looks like a fun gym. Makes me miss the sport. And looks like your form is getting a lot better from prior twitter videos. It is fun when start understanding all the techniques. I think good foot work is one of the hardest things to develop early on. In college we use to put bells on feet and try to control our foot speed so the bell wouldn't ring. It was exaggerated but it drove home the point. I think one of the more helpful drills for me though was doing a ton of down climbing. It forces you to look at your feet more than your hands. Traversing too is great for learning how to position your body effectively on the wall.
Bernt Goodson
2024-12-13 16:40:28 +0000 UTCChris you can climb multiple days in a row. You just need to drink more beer.
Ryan
2024-12-13 15:01:13 +0000 UTCA lovely post, Chris. Will there be any future posts on how/why the grappling/mma/BJJ space got so guru-ish/red-pilled? I think there’s some interesting history with the Gracie’s in Brazil and such, but I suspect it’s more a a conspirituality type of phenomenon. Maybe have Stephan Kesting on? Also, any tips on avoiding tendinitis when switching to bouldering?
DJM
2024-12-13 13:47:28 +0000 UTCQuite a bit to go before I’m at Olympic standard 😉
Christopher Kavanagh
2024-12-13 13:07:21 +0000 UTC😂 after just seeing olympics mainly, I have to say, the holds look VERY generous. You’re in some kind of hold heaven! But seriously, what a great activity to get into! I was surprised to see how hi you’re allowed to go without a harness!! Do we allow that height in Australia? I hope so.
Neil vdp
2024-12-13 09:21:35 +0000 UTCYes!
Christopher Kavanagh
2024-12-13 05:24:58 +0000 UTCBeast.
Frank Lantz
2024-12-13 03:32:28 +0000 UTCGravity Vault in Middletown is my local but sometimes Flemington. You?
Scott Grande
2024-12-13 03:11:18 +0000 UTCWhere do you go in NJ?
Kyle H
2024-12-13 03:10:40 +0000 UTCOldering looks very difficult
Julie
2024-12-13 00:32:25 +0000 UTCUnironically you should re-shoot the video with a tighter shirt to show off those guns, or just go with a tank top. Then, film a couple of grappling sessions. Add some Alan Watts narration or Marcus Aurelius quotes. Top it off with a couple anecdotes about your research into hallucinogen’s and ascetic cultures… Pin to twitter and you’ll be on Joe Rogan’s podcast within a month! That’s the blueprint for earning street cred in the brosphere 📈 😆
Par
2024-12-13 00:03:46 +0000 UTCI love the title but let’s see this modern beard you’ve been bragging about! 🧔🏻
Dada de Broglie
2024-12-12 23:56:28 +0000 UTCLooking pretty strong, Chris! Does Japan have a cool climbing sub-culture? A stereotype I have of Japan — they love sub-cultures.
Kyle H
2024-12-12 23:32:25 +0000 UTCThanks for sharing! I need to start something and this is very inspiring. 👍🏼
Jen
2024-12-12 22:40:10 +0000 UTCYou know that one cult leader who used to be a ballet dancer and made ballet a huge part of his cult? You could do that but for bouldering
Adalheidur
2024-12-12 21:32:34 +0000 UTCNice - bouldering gang let's gooo! Also have you ever noticed that bouldering as a hobby is overrepresented among academics? My theory is that it's something to do with the appeal of problem solving, and the fact that it can be done solo (read: by introverts)
Iwan Williams
2024-12-12 21:27:40 +0000 UTCNo bloopers? 😕
Chrizzy
2024-12-12 17:57:20 +0000 UTCNice, genuinely knew absolutely nothing about this beyond 'climbing of some kind'. Sadly, as someone with acrophobia and vertigo not for me, but looks fun!
John S Durst
2024-12-12 17:21:05 +0000 UTCStrong work! If you ever find yourself in the dystopian nightmare that is California 😜. Could point you in the direction of world class bouldering In the Tahoe area.
PuffyLowe
2024-12-12 17:14:18 +0000 UTCThat core ‘tho 🤩 & look at those guns, you know we love this content
Lillie
2024-12-12 16:36:42 +0000 UTCThanks, that was interesting and fun to watch! A local movie theatre will be showing Stallone's "Cliffhanger" next year... now I'm in the mood for that. 🪨😄🧗
Roland Weber
2024-12-12 16:25:29 +0000 UTCAs a 60 something myself I know this is something I will *never* do, and probably never could even when younger. That said I get a great deal of enjoyment from your adventures :) Thanks for sharing with us.
Don Schaffner
2024-12-12 14:58:26 +0000 UTCWhat a great idea. I'm gunna copy you.
Emma
2024-12-12 10:19:21 +0000 UTCWow this looks way better than I imagined. Thanks for sharing
Níall Faughnan
2024-12-12 09:13:29 +0000 UTCIndulgence = Approved!
Idan Ca
2024-12-12 08:30:04 +0000 UTCNice work, have you tried B-PUMP Akihabara, with its open air roof? Loved that gym when I visited Tokyo last year
Daniel
2024-12-12 08:16:01 +0000 UTCFine, you've convinced me. Time to get my old shoes out and build back those calluses.
Password1234!
2024-12-12 07:38:27 +0000 UTCCome to BC and I’ll take you on some multipitch trad 🫡
Ed Smith
2024-12-12 06:38:01 +0000 UTCNice work - this is all at famously difficult Japanese gyms right?! If you ever decide to visit New Zealand reach out and I'll show you Castle Hill - truly world class bouldering.
Rob W
2024-12-12 05:32:02 +0000 UTCI watched this while eating ice cream :) well done!
Kimberly Beer
2024-12-12 04:26:16 +0000 UTCIt comes down to your tolerance for risk of re-injury or exacerbating an ongoing issue. Some continue the sport for years and years with these injuries and just accept the chronic pain as the cost of what’s a net positive in their life, but that seems a little myopic to me given most quit BJJ sooner or later for logistical reasons if not due to the injuries and wear and tear on the body. That said, it was a lot of fun and quite addicting! But bouldering will for sure better preserve your knees!
Milquetoast Ramen
2024-12-12 04:19:05 +0000 UTCI’m here for the soundtrack.
Ryan Booker
2024-12-12 04:04:50 +0000 UTCNobody would care but maybe hard for getting grip.
Christopher Kavanagh
2024-12-12 03:52:35 +0000 UTCQuestion: (for Chris and other boulderers): What’s the attitude (or rules) toward wearing gloves at these gyms?
Nancy Hale
2024-12-12 03:51:29 +0000 UTCGood copypasta!
Christopher Kavanagh
2024-12-12 03:35:40 +0000 UTCFascinating work, good on you, Chris! It’s especially inspiring that 60+ aged folks are kicking butt in your gym.
Nancy Hale
2024-12-12 03:31:33 +0000 UTCGood stuff, Chris! Great looking boulders there. If you ever happen to be in the NJ area, we can get a session in.
Scott Grande
2024-12-12 03:07:12 +0000 UTCWell done! It looks like it requires a good mix of flexibility and strength. I’d like to give it a try.
Linda Sears
2024-12-12 03:00:18 +0000 UTC“Awesome vid. Great size. Look thick. Solid. Tight. Keep us all posted on your continued progress with any new progress pics or vid clips. Show us what you got man. Wanna see how freakin' huge, solid, thick and tight you can get. Thanks for the motivation.” 🙃
Par
2024-12-12 02:49:40 +0000 UTCWell played.
Brian Hurst
2024-12-12 02:22:17 +0000 UTCim 42 too! Went to a local gym with my son and I was amazed at the spidermen scaling the walls. it's harder than it looks.
Jamison Shipley
2024-12-12 01:50:17 +0000 UTCThis look fun! I used to climb and boulder often, and looking this made me feel like doing it again this winter. Three years ago I went to Peña de Bernal with a couple of friends in Mexico. I heard it's the 3rd biggest monolith in the world. The climb took a whole day at a relaxed pace, and even if it's really high and steep, it was probably easier than what you do here. Good memories...
Jean-François Melançon
2024-12-12 01:46:51 +0000 UTCKnee injury! Partial Meniscectomy with microfracturing!
Christopher Kavanagh
2024-12-12 01:23:15 +0000 UTCDepends on the gym. Sometimes they have just badges or stickers to mark the holds. Also on certain routes there are shared volumes, usually marked by a small hold of the relevant colour being present. It varies by gym.
Christopher Kavanagh
2024-12-12 01:13:24 +0000 UTCLooks like a great bouldering gym here! It's definitely a much kinder sport on the body, speaking as someone who started with climbing, turned to grappling, then got injured and returned to climbing. But depends on what sort of niggling injuries we're talking about. Anything neck-related like me and I'd tread lightly
Milquetoast Ramen
2024-12-12 01:12:00 +0000 UTCLet’s Go 😉
Christopher Kavanagh
2024-12-12 01:09:30 +0000 UTCThink you are supposed to stay in the same color no?
Casey Marshall
2024-12-12 01:02:01 +0000 UTCI've been top roping for a while. I'm 47 and injuries are just such an issue, bouldering is especially hard on my body. But I'm glad it's working for you!
Eric Carlsen
2024-12-12 01:00:09 +0000 UTCGet ‘em Kav! About to hit my local gym right now in Melbourne🧗🏼
Yokey Doke
2024-12-12 00:52:45 +0000 UTC
