[Random note]How to use cyanon? Specific treatment for air bubbles, parting line filling, gap filling

Specific Uses and Examples of Cyanon

Since you requested it, I'll try to show you some of the ways I have used (and am still using) Cyanon. I'll give you a quick overview first.

┃About Cyanon

Cyanon DW is a useful adhesive for garage kits and plastic models. It has a certain viscosity, so it can be used for many other purposes besides gluing, such as adding details, filling in gaps, and filling in missing parts. In addition, its white color makes it compatible with resin.

Cyanon has not only DW but also SW, which is transparent, low viscosity, and smooth like water, so it is not suitable for modeling. Therefore, if you are going to purchase Cyanon for modeling purposes, you should choose DW. (DW is hereafter referred to as Cyanon.)

┃Improved workability when used with curing spray

Since Cyanon does not cure immediately, it should be used in combination with a curing accelerator spray to speed up the work.

There are a variety of curing sprays, such as accelerated curing primer for Cyanon and Arteco spray, but the bottom line is that you can choose whatever you like as long as it cures.

Recently I have been using BSA Saclay's 919 Primer. The curing sprays do not differ in curing speed, but in the smell when used (to be precise, not only the smell but also the ingredients contained are different. ) I prefer to use an acetone-free one.

I finally settled on BSA Sakurai's 919 Prime because I want to use something that doesn't smell if possible. 420ml was around 1400 yen when I bought it from God Hand officially in October 2023, but as of March 2024, the price has increased to 1870 yen, so it might be a good idea to stock up when it is cheap! I think it's a good idea to stock up on it when it's cheap!

┃Substitutes for Cyanon

It is difficult to obtain Cyanon outside of Japan, but overseas, Starbond's DW-500 seems to have a similar texture, so please try using that one.

https://starbond.com/products/white-heavy-medium-ca-glue-dw-500

┃Nozzle attachment facilitates spot use

Cyanon comes with a nozzle attached to the container from the start, but this nozzle is too thick for the amount used at one time. Therefore, it is necessary to purchase a thin nozzle separately, as it makes it easier to adjust the amount and to be able to dispense only the necessary amount to the targeted area.

https://amzn.to/3TumlXe

I use Pro Hobby's fine nozzle as if it were disposable, and I think it is very cost-effective because it has not run out yet after more than two years since I bought it.

┃Storage Methods

When not in use, I keep it in a zipper bag with the fine nozzle attached, along with a desiccant. If I leave Cyanon as it is, it sometimes becomes viscous in the container after about 3 months and difficult to use (probably because it reacts with moisture in the air), but this has not happened since I started putting it in a zipper bag, so I think it lasts longer if I do this.

┃Advantages and disadvantages of Cyanon + baby powder

Cyanon, when combined with baby powder, increases machinability and makes it easier to use, but on the other hand, it has the disadvantage that it tends to peel off when dipped in solvent to remove paint + that part is easily stained.

However, if the parts are not skin parts, there is no problem even if they are stained, but for skin parts, it is fatal, so I personally no longer mix baby powder.

Also, if you are using it to supplement a missing part or something, it tends to be slightly more brittle than cyanon alone, so you need to be careful about that.

Specific uses of Cyanon include the following situations.

   Filling air bubbles

   Parting line step erasing

   Gap filling process

   Heaping up for detailing, etc.

We will look at them one by one.

┃Filling air bubbles

Filling air bubbles is an essential part of the garage kit process. Cyanon is often used for this purpose. Simply pour Cyanon into the hole and spray with hardening spray.

The process is as follows: find air bubbles → drill to widen the hole → pour Cyanon into the hole → file the surface to make it flush.

This is the flow of the process. The key point is to drill a hole larger than the air bubble and fill it. The reason is that if you drill a small hole for a small air bubble, there is a high possibility that the Cyanon will not flow deep into the hole and will remain in place as a lid. If this happens, the bubble will remain on the inside of the part, which is not very useful.

A simple graphical representation would look like this.

In order to firmly fill air bubbles, it is necessary to drill a slightly larger hole (especially with a wider entrance). Air bubbles left inside can be quite noticeable on skin parts.

If the holes are drilled as firmly as shown in the photo above, cyanon can be poured deep into the resin, so there should be no problem. (However, in the case of ivory resin, the color of Cyanon is different from that of ivory resin, so it is not recommended to make a large hole in the resin.

If it is not a skin part, you don't have to worry about it, but if it is a skin part, you should be careful.

┃Parting line step erasing

Parting lines are inevitable due to the nature of the garage kit reproduction method. Therefore, it is necessary to remove them carefully.

The best way to do this is to file the parting lines and apply Cyanon to the parting lines, so that the original shape will not be destroyed. If you only file, the surface height is usually adjusted to the lower height, so it is easy to lose the shape.

To avoid this, it is a simple idea to heap and file Cyanon along the parting line, but it is surprisingly useful.

Heaping cyanon on the parting line

Stretch the surface as smooth as possible with a Kimwipe, etc., and then harden with a hardening spray.

Smooth by filing

After work. (The part filled with Cyanon is slightly visible, but it will not be an issue once the part is painted.)

The method of putting Cyanon as it is on the parting line is easy, but the demerit is that it leaves marks on the parting line. If you are willing to spend a little time and effort, you can use a zirconia bit or similar tool to cut out the parting line area and then apply Cyanon to the area.

This way, the parting line will not be visible after painting. Of course, you can hide the parting line with white surfacer before painting, but it is a little difficult to adjust the color of the skin part.

If you don't want the parting lines to show through after painting, I think it would be better to use a shallow gouge and fill it in with cyanon. This is a slightly more difficult and time-consuming process, so it should only be done if it can be done.

In addition, all of the above is based on the assumption that the parts are skin parts, so you don't need to worry too much if they are not skin parts. You can just fill in with cyanon and file to remove parting lines without worrying about details.

┃Gap filling process

Sometimes I use Cyanon to fill in gaps between parts when I try to temporarily assemble the parts.

There are various ways to do this, but in my case, I apply Mentum to the side where I do not want to apply Cyanon, assemble the parts with Cyanon on the opposite side, spray the parts with hardening spray, and file them to shape them....

You can also apply Good Smile sol instead of Mentum, so you can use whatever method you like.

┃Heaping up for detailing

Cyanon can also be used to fill in missing parts and add detail. For example, if the fingertips of a kit are crushed or missing due to air bubbles, Cyanon can be used to restore them. It can also be used to restore parts that have lost their shape due to over cutting.

Since hardened Cyanon is hard, I often use a #260 sponge file to even out the entire surface.

I'm sorry, but I don't have a good sample for filling in gaps and adding detail, but to put it simply, you can do with Cyanon what you can do with Epo Putty. Of course, this is limited to skin parts, so there are cases where it is easier to work with Epo Putty if the part is not skin. Therefore, it is desirable to use the right material for the right job.

If I find a good sample, I will add it to this page.

this is how I use Cyanon. I am not afraid to use Cyanon because of its property to dissolve painted surfaces...e.g., air bubbles are found after painting. In such a case, it is possible to avoid it by using a material that does not damage the paint film, such as UV resin. We would like to use the right materials in the right places to make the work more efficient.