Howdy, wonderful people!
I've bundled a bunch of things into this single post, just for a change :) Hmm, maybe some contents are in order:
> New Fixer Jar parts - a hidden drawer, false bottom and an interior lid.
> Hinged hatch for the Archimedean Ball
> A rugged case for Wacom pens
> Arduino Mega and Uno enclosures.
Let's get to it!
NEW FIXER JAR PARTS!
Secret compartments are great, and I really do need to make more of them. But right now the Fixer Jar can have some! First we have secret drawers that (hopefully) don't look too obvious from the outside:

That's right, that bit that looks like two normal middle segments is a lie! It's actually a double-height segment with fake connectors in the middle, and a drawer that uses a fake connector as a handle. Devious! You'll probably want to put a lid over the top of that drawer, which is where the false bottom comes in...
On the left in the picture below you'll see a middle section that has a base to it. The underside still has indents for meshing with pieces below it, which in this case could be the drawer assembly. However, this false bottom piece could just as easily be used to provide a super secret compartment above the regular bottom piece that would need the connectors to be unscrewed for access. Impenetrable!

On the bottom right you'll see the third new part - similar to the false bottom, but with a small lid to provide access without having to disassemble everything. Clearly less super secret, but more convenient.
I have been experimenting with a hinged layer that would work similarly to the drawers, but being so set on making it a "secret door" really does limit what can be achieved :P
Files
The new parts are still under 805 Fixer Jar, and are:
* Middle with base.stl
* Middle for Small Lid.stl
* Small Lid.stl
* Middle for Drawer.stl
* Drawer.stl
Printing Tips
All parts print bottom-down, as per the existing parts.
HATCH FOR THE ARCHIMEDEAN BALL!
Tired of unscrewing ten bolts from around your decagonal plate just to get into your Archimedean Ball? This is the model for you! It's a replacement plate that incorporates a print-in-place hinged access hatch. Now you can store... er... smaller polyhedra, maybe?

Files
The new hinged panel is with the existing files under 808 Archimedean Ball
Printing Tips
The new panel prints in exactly the same orientation as the existing decagonal panel: flat side down. Take care of your bottom layer as always, and since this is an articulated design watch out for any print issues like stringing or overextrusion that might cause binding in the moving parts!
WACOM PEN CASE (AND NEW KNURLED RING)
(the knurled ring here can be used on all those RPi cases!)
Throwing a Wacom stylus into a bag is a recipe for broken tips (or pens), but fortunately we can resolve this with the power of 3D printing! This case is sized to fit a Wacom stylus snugly and safely, and stays closed using a ring with the same thread as all those Raspberry Pi cases. However, it has a slightly different ring design with a knurled, smaller-diameter outer.

The reason for the new ring wasn't just to be fancy - I wanted it to fit within the dimensions of the case, and rather than make the case thicker than it needed to be, I made the ring smaller. I toyed with the idea of an integrated latch, but the screw closure is just so reliable, and that was the priority with this one.

Files
You'll find this one on Dropbox under 803 Wacom Pen Case.
Printing Tips
The case prints folded open, outside surfaces down, and the nut can print either flat side up, like so:

Take care of your bottom layer as always, and since this is an articulated design watch out for any print issues like stringing or overextrusion that might cause binding in the moving parts!
ARDUINO UNO AND MEGA ENCLOSURES!
Arduino boards are great, and after many request I finally put together a set of enclosures similar to the hinged Raspberry Pi ones. There were some different considerations for these ones when compared to the Pi cases, though.
First and foremost, size! There are cases here for both the Uno and the Mega, and both have two variants: Large and Compact. The Compact versions just enclose the boards, with only a little room above them, while the Large versions have a much larger space inside. The idea here is to have a relatively generous space in which to fit other parts.

Secondly, while there are few standard connectors on the boards there is every likelihood that other wires and cables might need to be routed in. So, the hexagonal pattern that is used all over the enclosure is intended to allow small wires to be passed through, and more importantly can be easily cut to form larger holes without things looking too messy.

Thirdly, and annoyingly, I've found that the boards that I have are vastly inconsistent in terms of the specific placement of the connectors on the "front", varying by as much as 2mm either way. That makes it very difficult to print a case that fits precisely. So, what I've done is to provide a large gap that allows for considerable variation. Additionally, the space between the two connectors is now broken up by two vertical strips rather than a whole plane, which makes the gaps around the connectors look a bit more natural.
Files
You'll find everything on Dropbox under 802 Arduino Cases.
Printing Tips
The cases print folded open, like so:

Take care of your bottom layer as always, and since this is an articulated design watch out for any print issues like stringing or overextrusion that might cause binding in the moving parts!
FINAL THOUGHTS
It's funny how designs start to pile up when your'e already working on the next idea :) But that's also the fun of it, eternally chasing the next interesting problem. Thank you for being on the ride with me, I couldn't do it without you! :)
xoxo
Sven.
Clockspring3D
2020-08-19 23:54:57 +0000 UTCClockspring3D
2020-08-19 23:12:23 +0000 UTCClockspring3D
2020-08-19 14:43:40 +0000 UTC