The Rules for Fried Rice

Fried rice at home is easy--so long as you follow the rules. If you want a long breakdown of the testing that went into developing these rules, check out my article on Serious Eats over here.

• Start with Cooked and Slightly Dried Rice: Using cooked rice that has had some time to dry out (even just spread on a plate for a bit) is crucial. This helps prevent the rice from steaming and becoming mushy in the hot wok or pan, allowing it to fry properly and develop a slightly chewy texture.

• Rinse Raw Rice Before Cooking (If Applicable): If you are cooking rice from scratch specifically for fried rice, make sure to rinse it thoroughly under cold water. This removes excess surface starch, which is a primary culprit for clumping during the frying process, leading to a more desirable separation of grains.

• Ensure Your Pan is Very Hot: High heat is essential for proper fried rice. A ripping-hot wok or skillet allows the rice grains to sear and develop a slightly crispy exterior quickly, without absorbing too much oil or becoming soggy. This rapid cooking also contributes to the development of "wok hei," a unique smoky flavor.

• Cook the Rice in Small Batches: Overcrowding the pan will significantly lower its temperature, causing the rice to steam instead of fry. Cooking in smaller portions ensures that each grain has enough contact with the hot surface to fry effectively and achieve the desired texture and slight browning.

• Use Oil and Heat it First: Adding oil to the hot pan before the rice ensures that each grain gets coated, preventing sticking and promoting even frying. Don't be afraid to use enough oil to coat the rice, but avoid making it greasy. Heating the oil first helps it spread evenly.

• Incorporate Add-Ins Sparingly: The focus of good fried rice should be on the rice itself. Add-ins like vegetables and proteins should be used in moderation to provide flavor and texture without overwhelming the dish or adding excessive moisture that can hinder the frying process.

• Apply Sauces Judiciously: Adding too much sauce can saturate the rice, making it soft and mushy, which defeats the purpose of carefully preparing dry, individual grains. Use sauces in small amounts towards the end of cooking to enhance flavor without compromising the texture.

• Season Primarily with Salt: While sauces like soy sauce contribute some saltiness, using plain salt allows for better control over the overall seasoning without adding extra liquid. This helps maintain the dryness and distinctness of the rice grains and prevents the sauce from dominating other subtle flavors.

• Toss Everything Together Thoroughly and Quickly: Consistent and quick tossing in the hot pan ensures that all the ingredients are evenly heated, coated with oil and sauce (if used), and that the rice grains remain separate and don't stick together. This also helps distribute the flavors evenly throughout the dish.

Egg Fried Rice

RECIPE TITLE

Every recipe I publish here is personally tested, tasted, and approved.

What I like about this recipe:

• Using day-old rice or slightly dry rice ensures that it doesn't stick as it cooks.

• Cooking the rice in a ripping hot wok keeps the grains separate and adds a smokey flavor.

• Preheating the wok prevents the eggs from sticking.

Yield: Serves 3-4

Active Time: 10 minutes

Total Time: 10 minutes

Notes: For the rice, it's important that it is relatively dry. If using fresh-cooked rice, spread the rice out into a thin layer on a rimmed baking sheet immediately after cooking and allow to steam-dry for at least 15 minutes. Alternatively, store rice in an uncovered container in the refrigerator overnight. Break large rice clumps up with your hands before beginning.

Ingredients

• 3 tablespoons (45 ml) vegetable or other neutral oil

• 3 large eggs, thoroughly beaten

• 1 1/2 to 2 cups (about 1 pound/450 g) cooked rice (see note)

• Salt

• MSG (optional)

• White pepper

• 2 teaspoons (10 ml) light soy sauce

• 3 scallions, thinly sliced crosswise

Directions

Instructions (for a wok on a gas burner):

1. Preheat the Wok: Preheat a wok over high heat until it is lightly smoking. Add one tablespoon of the oil and swirl to coat the cooking surface. If you are cooking on a powerful outdoor wok burner, reduce the heat to minimum. If you are using a standard Western burner, keep the heat on high throughout the cooking process.

2. Cook the Egg and Add Rice: Add the egg(s) to the center of the hot wok. Cook, swirling the wok gently, until the bottom of the egg is just beginning to set but the top is still slightly wet, about 5-15 seconds on a powerful burner or 15-25 seconds on a standard burner. Immediately add the cooked rice directly on top of the slightly wet egg in the center of the wok.

3. Break Up and Stir-Fry: Using a wok spatula, begin to break up the rice and the partially cooked egg together, tossing and stirring as you break them apart. Stir-fry the mixture until the rice starts to pop and jump on its own when you briefly set the wok down, about 1 minute on a powerful burner or two to three minutes on a standard burner. Season with salt, MSG, and white pepper

4. Add Remaining Oil and Soy Sauce: Add the remaining tablespoon (or two, if desired) of the oil around the rim of the wok, then add the soy sauce to the same spot, allowing it to sizzle briefly. Stir-fry vigorously until the rice and egg are evenly coated in the soy sauce. The rice should be mostly broken up into distinct grains without any large clumps.

5. Add Scallions and Serve: Add the scallions (if using). Remove the wok from the heat and toss to combine. Transfer the fried rice to a serving platter and serve immediately.

Instructions (for a skillet on an electric or induction burner):

1. Heat the Skillet: Add one tablespoon of the oil to a large non-stick, carbon steel, or cast iron skillet and swirl to coat the bottom. Heat the skillet over high heat until the oil is shimmering.

2. Cook the Egg and Add Rice: Crack the egg(s) into the center of the hot skillet. Cook without moving until the bottom of the egg is just beginning to set but the top is still slightly wet, about 15-25 seconds. Immediately add the cooked rice directly on top of the slightly wet egg in the center of the skillet. Season with salt, MSG, and pepper.

3. Break Up and Stir-Fry: Using a wooden spoon or spatula, begin to break up the rice and the partially cooked egg together, tossing and stirring as you break them apart. Stir-fry the mixture until the rice grains are loose and separated, about two to three minutes.

4. Add Remaining Oil and Soy Sauce: Add the remaining two tablespoons of the oil to the pan and swirl to coat. Add the soy sauce to the pan. Stir-fry until the rice and egg are evenly coated in the soy sauce. The rice should be mostly broken up into distinct grains without any large clumps.

5. Add Scallions and Serve: Add the scallions (if using). Remove the skillet from the heat and toss to combine. Transfer the fried rice to a serving platter and serve immediately.