Old School Caesar Salad

OK, so not so old school. The original Caesar salad created in Tijuana by Caesar Cardini had not anchovies in it (outside the anchovies found in Worcestershire sauce), but I love anchovies and so do my kids, so we are keeping them. The old school element comes in how the dressing is formed (with a coddled egg in a mortar and pestle), and in the way the Romaine is served as whole spears, intended to be eaten with the fingers. It's an image that Julie Child described in detail in remembering a childhood trip to the original restaurant. I love the way she talked about how the whole leaves of romaine tumble over each other in a gigantic bowl.

You don't need a giant bowl to make this, but it sure helps! 

I like forming the dressing in a mortar and pestle which does a better job of extracting flavor from the garlic clove and anchovies than a food processor or knife does. It also makes forming a good emulsion a snap. But if you don't have a large mortar and pestle, first of all, get one (at least a 2 cup capacity, solid granite, like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X2JJX4J/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_9Y17RMTC5JENRDKW7Y32?linkCode=ml1&tag=kenjilopezalt-20). In the meantime, you can make this recipe by smashing the garlic and anchovies into a paste with the side of your knife on a cutting board, then proceeding as directed in a bowl with a whisk rather than in a mortar and pestle.

For the Croutons:

About 6 ounces (175g) hole-y bread, like a sourdough boule or a baguette, crusts trimmed off and crumb cut into 3/4-inch cubes

1 tablespoon (15ml) extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

A good sprinkle or garlic powder

For the Dressing:

1 large egg

1 clove garlic

1 (2-ounce; 55g) tin of anchovies, half the oil drained and the rest reserved

2 teaspoons dijon mustards

A few big dashes of Worcestershire sauce

1 ounce (30g) grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for serving

1 tablespoon (15ml) juice from 1 lemon

1/2 cup (120ml) extra-virgin olive oil

For the Salad

2 heads romaine lettuce, inner leaves only, washed and carefully dried, leaves left intact

More Parmesan and/or anchovies

1. For the Croutons: Preheat the toaster oven or regular oven to 400°F. In a medium bowl, combine the bread cubes, olive oil, salt and pepper to taste, and garlic powder. Toss until everything is evenly coated. Transfer to a rimmed baking sheet and bake until toasty on the outside but still tender in the middle, about 8 minutes.

2. For the Dressing: Bring a small pot of water to a boil. Carefully lower the egg into the boiling water and cook for two minutes. Drain and run the egg until cool water until easy to handle.

3. Grind the garlic, anchovies, and dijon mustard in a mortar and pestle until they form a paste. Add the egg (use a spoon so scrape out everything from the inside of the shell), Worcestershire, cheese, and lemon juice and stir with the pestle to combine. Stirring and grinding constantly, drizzle in the olive oil. It should form a thin emulsion.

4. For the salad, toss the romaine with the dressing in the largest bowl you have. Season to taste with salt and pepper, then Transfer to a serving platter. Scatter the croutons over the top and shower the whole thing with more grated part. Serve.