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howNOTtoHighline
howNOTtoHighline

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I thought this climbing anchor was going to be twice as strong

Patrons: This is the 5th of 8 posts for March.  I've been wanting to test 3-point climbing anchors for a long time and our new custom steel rigging plate lets us do that... all to find out this particular anchor broke lower than a 12kn amazon carabiner 😂  (which is consistently 18kn fyi).  It sparks the question of what is strong enough if you are aiming to have a S.E.R.E.N.E anchor.  

Extra Content: 

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cp-cVlJrGYp/ This isn't revolutionary but is a nice demo of how you can minimize the force on an anchor.  This sparked a conversation with a firefighter who teaches ultra-light rescue techniques and I may join in on his next week-long class for that specialized training.  

Extra Content:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CqBuOmWym6g/ The previous map broke and the last 5 months we have been going back and forth with the ISA to get this rebuilt.  We still struggle with how to incorporate a bunch of private WhatsApp groups onto a resource like this so we can get new people involved in their areas but it will continuously be improved upon.  The community page is rebuilt on hownot2.com. 


I thought this climbing anchor was going to be twice as strong

Comments

Nice video , well edited I liked the format and you just seam to be getting more comfortable in front of the camera. Keep them going, I can't wait to see how that burn gear breaks

I always bring 1 screamer when multi-pitch climbing. Just for leaving the multi-pitch belay (plus it's a spare draw if I need one) It's the only time in climbing to get forces that high. AND. Everybody dies if that anchor blows. I do think they should be designed a bit better for this purpose, I don't think that the forces a screamer is designed for match well with a FF2. (while trying to keep the max force on human to ~<6gs - a number we used to use in pedestrian to vehicle impact)

Jason


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