EARLY ACCESS: This is what I'm posting tomorrow. I'm tinkering with format for knot specific videos. Showing how to tie it, application, untie test, and failure tests. This one is a simple version. I have a more complex butterfly coming out soon. I really wanted to release a drop tower cam video but it is only half edited and I'm almost done on the 2nd pass of all the big wall videos. My new website might be live in a week and the test audience versions of the big wall videos should be done in a week. I have to make sure they don't have glaring editing mistakes and releasing 13 videos simultaneously creates a higher chance for mistakes since I can't watch them 7-10x each like i normally do before publishing. Let me know what you think of this knot format.
Is the super 8 or double figure of 8 redundant if one eye fails? ABOK 1085 names it Double Figure of 8. We show how to tie the bunny ears then pull it to 4kn and 9kn to see if we can untie it. Some knots are impossible to untie, and some are very easy to untie after being pulled. This was pretty much in the middle.
Then we pulled both ears and it broke in the knot at the same force we usually get with this rope at 18.30kN. We clipped one eye and it still broke in the knot at 17.33kN which is pretty much normal. The friction of the Beal Spelenium 10mm Static Rope doesn't let it slip to failure. So we tested it tied in dyneema because that will slip and show us how it would fail if it could slip. If you clip one eye, it turns into a normal figure 8 but if you clip the other like we did in our final test, it slipped to failure.
Dustin Higdon
2022-08-22 21:23:03 +0000 UTC