Najdmie

Waxed Jacket 2, Extended Tutorial

First of all, thanks to all patrons that has been supporting me. Your monetary contribution makes it possible for me to make new garment every week.

I recently reach 1k sub on YouTube. It may not be much for an average youtuber, but a big personal milestone for me, especially with such a niche audience. As a token of appreciation, I take some times to do an extended tutorial. I know that it is the most boring and technical tutorial, and there is still no audio, but I still do my best.<...

Waxed Jacket

This is a redo of waxed jacket that I did a long time ago using instruction from Kershaw book.

Fabric: Woven. Real fabric is probably waxed cotton. I use heavy cotton twill, but make it a bit shiny.

Women Denim Jacket

Reference: Levi EX-BOYFRIEND TRUCKER JACKET

Bodice: ESMOD darted block without dart. Jacket enlargement. 

Sleeve: ESMOD kimono sleeve with self gusset, kimono sleeve with seam.

Colla...

Men Short Tights

Reference: Adidas TECHFIT 3-STRIPES TRAINING SHORT TIGHTS

Block: Injoo Men Four-way stretch legging. I omit vertical reduction in the instruction for easier fitting. Else, I have to manipulate fabric stretch, skin friction etc.

Fabric: Any very stretchy fabric will do. I use knit cotton rayon.

Detailing: Style...

Men Long Tights

Reference: Adidas OWN THE RUN LEGGINGS

Block: Injoo Men Four-way stretch legging. I omit vertical reduction in the instruction for easier fitting. Else, I have to manipulate fabric stretch, skin friction etc.

Fabric: Any very stretchy fabric will do. I use knit cotton rayon.

Detailing: Style line, graphic, reflective str...

Cheongsam

This a redo of cheongsam model that I did long time ago based on instruction by Venderlinde.

Bodice and sleeve block loosely based on Burgo. As this is digital garment, I can fo...

Slip Dress

Reference: L'Agence Jodie V-Neck Silk Slip Dress

Instruction based on Burgo full slip, but I shift the dart position to cleavage. I'm not sure if the real garment has dart, but I think the dart will make it fit better. I cannot find instruction for dartless slip dress except 2023-04-29 07:14:37 +0000 UTC View Post

Shell Jacket

Reference: Fisher and Baker Kensington Shell

Bodice and hood: Kershaw anorak.

Sleeve: Kershaw tailored two-piece sleeve for single-breasted jacket.

Fabric: Polyester taffeta.

Detailing: Zippers, pocket, adjustable cuff, pockets, trims, snap buttons, sty...

Women Polo Shirt 2

Reference: Adidas AEROREADY CORE POLO SHIRT

Bodice and sleeve: Donnanno bodice block without dart, fitted in sleeve

Collar: Kershaw short sleeve polo (refer collar with stand)

Fabric: Knit rayon

Detailing: Topstitching

Women Polo Shirt 1

Reference: Polo Ralph Laurent Classic Fit Mesh Polo Shirt

Bodice and sleeve: Donnanno bodice block without dart, fitted in sleeve

Collar: Myoungok ribbed knit collar.

Fabric: Knit pique jersey, ribbed knit for collar and cuff

Detailing: ribbed cuff, hem...

T-Shirt with Pocket

Reference: Uniqlo JWA Short Sleeve Pocket T-Shirt

Bodice and sleeve: Burgo men T-shirt, but with more ease added.

Fabric: Knit, cotton jersey

Women Sports Jacket

Reference: Under Armour Women's UA OutRun The Storm Jacket

Bodice: Aldrich women close fitting bodice block. I modified the instruction for more   dropped/extended shoulder. This block has bust dart. Generally, sportswear use dartless 'flat' block, but this particular design has styleline that cut through the dart.

S...

Tailored Coat

Reference: Burberry Wool Cashmere Tailored Coat

Bodice block and collar: Donnanno classic coat block. 

Sleeve: Burgo 2-piece coat sleeve. Somehow I cannot create good matching sleeve using Donnanno instruction.

Fabric: Woven. I use the wool fabric but ch...

Sheath Dress

Reference: Theory Sleeveless Fitted MIni Dress

Bodice block: ESMOD darted bodice.

Fabric: woven

Detailing: fitted silhouette, side panel, back zipper opening

Behind the scene, Footwear

First of all, thank you so much for supporting me. Your contribution means a lot to me.

I have been dabbling a little bit on how to make 3D footwear. This will be a long term project and I expected to be able to produce various footwear models by next year. I will still mainly do clothing but will occasionally do footwear.

The biggest challenge is that resources on footwear making is scarce. I also has no real world experience.

I always believe in mastering the basic. In foo...

Sport Shorts

Reference: Adidas AEROREADY sport shorts

Trousers block: loosely based on knowles.

Fabric: Woven, polyester

Detailing: Elasticated waistband casing, side pocket with zipper, style lines.

Comment: I did not include step on how to detail the waistband because I mainly deals on draft. Besides, this 2023-03-19 14:49:47 +0000 UTC View Post

V-neck Sweater

Reference: Uniqlo IDLF Cotton Cashmere Oversized V Neck Long Sleeve Sweater

Bodice and sleeve: Donnanno basic T-shirt block and wide shoulder sweatshirt enlargement.

Fabric: Knit, rib

Detailing: V-neck, neck ribbed band, cuff ribbed band, hem ribbed band, side slit, back shoulder fake raglan.

Comment: Because this ...

Casual women pants

Reference: Uniqlo IDLF easy pants

Pants block/sloper: Injoo pants sloper

Fabric: woven, linen

Detailing: Buttons, side slip pocket, phone pocket, back patch pocket, fly. Vertical stripes on fabric.

Overshirt 2

*The video is the same with 'Overshirt 1' but has additional instruction for back box pleat.

Rereference: Myanderthal - Collar Lettering Shirt Jacket

Bodice and sleeve: Aldrich flat shirt block.

Collar: Aldrich 'shaped shirt collar with stand'

Sleeve shirt cuff instruction: loosely base on 2023-02-28 15:34:46 +0000 UTC View Post

Overshirt 1

Reference: ISAIA wool overshirt

Bodice and sleeve: Aldrich flat shirt block.

Collar: Aldrich 'shaped shirt collar with stand'

Sleeve shirt cuff instruction: loosely base on Myoungok two pleats shirt cuff.

Fabric: woven, wool

Detailing: breast pocket wit...

Constructing Cargo Pants

Continuation of the drafting video.

For timelape only, see this video.

Turn on caption or check transcript on YouTube to see my notes.

Intended for user with some experience because I will not explain everything.

Supplementary files available in 2023-02-22 00:52:04 +0000 UTC View Post

Files download

Jeans

Reference: Tom Ford Men's Moleskin Slim-Fit Jeans

Pants block: Burgo classic trousers block

Jeans adaptaion: Burgo jeans, with lowered waistline.

Fabric: woven, denim.

Detailing: waistband, belt loop, fly, button, decorative button/rivet, front pocket, ...

Women Peacoat

Reference: Golden Goose Wool Double-Breasted Button Peacoat

Bodice: Aldrich women flat overgarment block.

Sleeve: ESMOD women garment V2 two-piece sleeve.

Collar: 2023-02-11 07:47:55 +0000 UTC View Post

Hawaiian Shirt

Reference: Celine Hawaiian shirt printed in viscose.

Bodice, sleeve, collar: Myoungok classic fit torso, convertible collar shirt.

Fabric: Woven. Cotton poplin.

Detailing: Back yoke. Back pleat. Move shoulder seam forward. The lettering pattern is particularly cumbersome to imitate. I Mistakenly omitted breast pocket bec...

Women Leggings

Reference: Under Armour Women's ColdGear® Infrared Up The Pace Tights

Block: ESMOD one-piece legging block.

Fabric: Very stretchy fabric.

Detailing: Style lines, topstich.

Safari Jacket

Reference: Ralph Lauren Hartridge 4-Pocket Jacket

Bodice: Aldrich easy fitting jacket block.

Sleeve: Aldrich two-piece sleeve for outerwear.

Collar: Aldrich shaped convertible collar with hidden s...

Flared Sleeve Long Dress

Reference: IG post kdrama_fashion 

Plan:

- Use basic women block without dart - Donnanno Vol 2 

- Lengthen garment to just above ankle.

- Form slit on both sides up to mid-thigh.

- ...

Softwares

1. Clo / Marvelous Designer - I'm glad that this software exist but hate the lack of competitor. The main reasons I use Clo instead of MD is because it has built-in render, and I can create baseline instead of internal line. On the other hand, MD has more feature for 3D pipeline like re-topology. MD is also cheaper.

2. VStitcher/Browzwear - The only competitor to Clo/MD, at least for average user. You can request for free one year indie license. I don't know what will happen after one y...

Books

Below is a list of patternmaking book that I have read in no particular order. If your favorite book is not in the list please let me know in the comment. These books are particularly focused on patternmaking, not sewing. As a general tip for English speaker, choose books that are written natively in English (book from US, UK or by Korean authors) because many translated books are not well translated - they may use unconventional term which may confuse you.

1. 2023-01-16 12:47:49 +0000 UTC View Post