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howNOTtoHighline

howNOTtoHighline

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howNOTtoHighline posts

Leeper and Welded Cold Shut Old Climbing Hanger Break Tests

Clay Lippincott from https://cabrp.org/ donated some old hangers, and we broke them in our Bolt Buster concrete.  Check out the Bolting Bible on our website.  Everything is FREE and at https://www.hownottohighline.com/

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Climbing anchor shock loads are a myth - human testing in Yosemite

If one bolt or cam fails on a sliding X, does the shock load create enough force to be dangerous.  Many put limiter knots half way up the slings on both sides in order to limit the shock load but that reduces the strength of your sling significantly. So I use my body to see what it feels like when shock loading a mammut dyneema climbing sling (https://amzn.to/2VjXkRC).  Filmed with Bobby Hutton, Russell Travis ( View Post

Epic Wingsuit Stunt Wins Go Pro 2020 Challenge Award

Back in November 2019, we had 4 humans fly through the giant hole in the giant net we weaved.  It won the Go Pro Million Dollar Challenge Award https://youtu.be/MKunD8H3G-8 (no we did not win a million a dollars!).    The GGBY net was used for this project but was not a GGBY event.  If you want to go to that festival get your tickets at ...

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Set up a Slackline INSIDE - where and how to install anchors plus break tests

Rig a slackline inside your house safely.  We show you where to put your anchors, how to make and fill holes, and break test screws and eye bolts.  Share with someone that wants a slackline in their house! Raed rodeo weblock (not for tight slacklines or highlines!!!) https://raed-slacklines.com/rodeo-weblock  Slack Puzzle can be purchased at View Post

NO CHARGE - Slackline inside or without trees - unboxing PUZZLE SLACKRACK

I don't charge patron's for things that look like commercials.  I just like using this channel to support our friends making great slackline gear!

The Puzzle Slackrack is a fun slackline if you are limited on space, don't have trees, or can't put holes in your walls inside.  It's great for yoga excercises too.  You can buy one at https://www.facebook.com/SlacklineCollective/ (just messag...

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Are MicroFractures a Myth in climbing carabiners? Slow motion break tests on new & abused gear

We bought 6 Mammut Crag Wire Gates (https://amzn.to/2UN6G8b) and 6 Mammut Wall Micro Locks (https://amzn.to/3aSf77O) to test if microfractures were a myth.  We abused 3 of each and broke test all of them on our slacksnap machine.  Watch to see if any of them lost strength! 

We used a LineScale2 dynomometer (2020-04-08 13:31:51 +0000 UTC View Post

Climbing lead fall with rope in mouth!!! Podcast of a broken jaw

Sarah Sacky shares in this podcast about when she was lead climbing and took a bite of rope in her mouth to clip a quick draw higher but slipped.  Broken jaw, couldn't smile, lost tooth!  We all put ropes in our mouth from time to time... how would you do it safer???  

Everything is free and at www.howNOTtoHighline.com

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Replacing Climbing Wedge Bolts with Powers Bolts at Sugar Loaf in Tahoe - Bolting Bible

Bobby Hutton shows us how to remove climbing wedge bolts on a climbing route at Sugar Loaf in Tahoe California and replacing it with 1/2" SS Powers bolts donated by ASCA (https://www.safeclimbing.org/).  The Bolting Bible 2.020 version is now complete with 133 pages, 426 photos and 216 links THAT WORK.   

Our website has everything including THE BOLTING BIBLE!  2020-03-25 13:30:01 +0000 UTC View Post

Replacing split shaft climbing bolts with Powers Bolts at Sugar Loaf - Bolting Bible 2.020 is done!

Bobby Hutton and I show you the process of removing split shaft climbing bolts for an anchor at Sugar Loaf in Tahoe California and replacing it with 1/2" SS Powers bolts donated by ASCA (https://www.safeclimbing.org/).  

The Bolting Bible 2.020 version is now complete with 133 pages, 426 photos and 216 links THAT WORK.  It is all at www.howNOTtohighline.com.

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How NOT to install a Tree Net - These are way more fun than Tree Houses!

 We look at an 8 year old tree net that is deteriorating and strangling a tree and try to do some repairs with paracord.  The best price we found on paracord has been at https://amzn.to/3cM1Oas.  Please stay clipped in while working in a tree.  Please only build these in healthy trees on your property.  Please don't be an idiot and get hurt.  With @Charlies_web and @SagleySight  

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Mammut Dyneema Climbing Slings gear break test in slow motion - Limiter Knots are NOT redundant!!!

We tested Mammut 8.0 dyneema climbing slings found at https://amzn.to/38rsNoA pulled normal, sliding x and with limiter knots.  We also tested new vs old and found dyneema doesn't hold up well!  Also limiter knots, when broken from force, break in the knot and the whole thing unravels so it isn't redundant.  Do you think 2 climbing slings in a sliding X is a better solution to anchors???  -with Bobby Hutton&nb...

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Bolt Buster - 6 TITANIUM glue in climbing bolts - break test in slow motion

 The Titan Eterna's shocked us that we got very similar results in both shear and tension when we did our break tests in granite with Hilti 500 v3 epoxy glue.  

We got in shear 45.88KN, 51.32KN, and 44.88KN.   

We got in tension 42.14KN, 42.10KN and 47.70KN   Titanium Bolts @ 

http://www.titanclimbing.com/ US distributor of Titan products @ 

2020-02-26 14:30:59 +0000 UTC View Post

Lead falls in climbing gyms - how much forces does it generate? Climbing Science!

What forces are generated during a lead fall at a climbing gym?  At Pipeworks climbing gym in Sacramento, CA, Michael Melner, TJ Gillick and Ryan Kowalski do some falling for science.  We put dynamometers on the climber, belayer and the quickdraw in order to find out how many kilonewtons we generate.  Our gear ratings are more helpful when we understand the forces we generate. 

Buy a linescale at 2020-02-19 14:30:59 +0000 UTC View Post

How we rigged the giant space net for GGBY and walked a slackline set up in the middle!

This project was a collaboration from so many slackers, ideas and crossed fingers that it was very exciting to have it officially rigged for www.ggbygather.org .  The net was hand woven in my living room and in the park square by square by an amazing team over several months.  Thank you to @charlies_webs  @mikevanbikeman @sagelysight @tati.gaia @jmanslackin @loriggzo @spencermcbrideable @wind_bender_shea @meladapted.    

This could not have happened without...

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SlackSnap - Camp & Maillon Rapide quick Links are all rated the same when cross loaded? Slow Motion!

Yann Camus from https://blissclimbing.com/en/online-courses/ posted a question about quick links in his video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4A69FgeaajE&t= .  He asked why climbing quick links are all rated 10kn when they are cross loaded.  As we can see in this video the quick links don't fail at 10kn bu...

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Highline rigging 2.0 - How to rig a 350lb spacenet with only a few people

Before GGBY (https://ggbygathering.org/) we set up the net for some silly shenanigans but only had a few people.  Andy Lewis rigged his nanogon spacenet with the "shower curtain method" near this area so we gave it a try.  Watch us learn how not to do it.   Team who built the GGBY spacenet: @charlies_webs  @mikevanbikeman @sagelysight @tati.gaia @jmanslackin @loriggzo @spencermcbrideable @wind_bender_...

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Break testing OLD Climbing gear on Slacksnap - Slings, dog bones, and ropes

We broke a bunch of super old climbing gear donated by Layne Zuelke on our slacksnap machine.  

HIGHLINE UNIVERSITY INTERNATIONAL www.howNOTtohighline.com  BOLTING BIBLE https://www.slackademics.com/boltingbible  T-SHIRTS https://slacklife.threadless.com/  BECOME A WEEKLY SUPPORTER ON PATRON 2020-01-22 14:30:00 +0000 UTC View Post

How NOT to Vanlife - 88 Ford Econoline van build out tour

Welcome to HowNOTto Vanlife - a series showing off different slackliner vans to give you lots of ideas for your build out.  Ash and Callen show us their 88 ford econoline vanlife setup.  Sponsored by www.basejumpmoab.com and www.brewjuno.com  

HIGHLINE UNIVERSITY INTERNATIONAL www.howNOTtohighline.com  BOLTING BIBLE https://www.slackademics.com/boltingbible  T-SHIRTS 2020-01-15 14:30:01 +0000 UTC View Post

BoltBuster - Crux Monster climbing bolts tested in 45 degrees with slow motion

We tested 12mm crux monster bolts from http://www.bolt-products.com/ in a 45 degree angle in order to simulate the anchors we have at the GGBY festival.  https://ggbygathering.org/  We had very different results with our shear and tension test in sandstone vs concrete samples.  We cover all the numbers in this episode.  Please don't bolt ...

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Tandem Base Jump with Andy Lewis

Andy Lewis surprised me with a tandem base jump off the GGBY Highline Gathering net.  What a cool experience!!! Huck your meat at BASE Jump Moab With Sylvan Slacks and Ben Dicko  

HIGHLINE UNIVERSITY INTERNATIONAL www.howNOTtohighline.com  BOLTING BIBLE https://www.slackademics.com/boltingbible  T-SHIRTS https://slack...

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Over 50 climbing bolts breaking in sandstone - SLOW MOTION COMPILATION

We can learn so much in watching bolts break in 5 minutes about the nature of how they work.  You can see that they don't always come out of the rock, but the hangers come off, hangers snap, welds break, and bolts snap.  How much force did they come out at?  The Bolting Bible will have that soon but other than short mechanical bolts in wet sandstone, the forces are higher than climbing gear is rated for... so super good enough.  Why test them?  So we can learn to trus...

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Testing iPhone 11 on a giant rope swing attached to a slackline

 We love rope jumping and we found a new spot.  We did 2 jumps, one with a tire just to be funny and one holding my iphone 11 to see how stable it is.  Edited by Nick McPherson  HIGHLINE UNIVERSITY INTERNATIONAL www.howNOTtohighline.com  BOLTING BIBLE https://www.slackademics.com/boltingbible  T-SHIRTS https://sla...

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Bolting Bible - How do drill holes in rock for climbing and highlining bolts

We demonstrate drilling holes for climbing and highlining bolts in this video.  You can check out all The details at THE BOLTING BIBLE at https://www.slackademics.com/boltingbible and subscribe because we have bolt break tests every week on our channel now.  


HIGHLINE UNIVERSITY

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Slackline sewn loop science by Raed Slacklines

Stephan Chalkowski from Raed Slacklines shared about his vast research into sewn loops in an ISA saftey meeting (@InternationalSlacklineAssociation - ISA) in Bern Switzerland.   It was super interesting to me as I have studied this subject in depth because they are not redundant.  If we are wrong about 1 loop, the backup has the same loop.  Be careful getting sewn loops on your webbing that are NOT from a slackline company.  


HIGHLINE UNIVERSITY

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How do you organize a 2km long highline project. Interview with Danny Bouchard in Asbestos Canada.

What does it take to coordinate 30 people to do a world record project?  More work than it does to walk across a 2 kilometer long highline.  Danny Bouchard shares with us about his experience as the lead organizer of the Asbestos 2.0 event on a net donated by @treeweaves.  


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Where To Drill Holes for Climbing and Highlining Bolts - Bolting Bible

Once you drill holes in a rock, they are there forever.  Consider carefully IF and WHERE you place bolts before bolting climbing routes or when you establish highlines.  See our EQUALIZATION IS A MYTH series on our channel for bolt patterns as that determines where the holes will go as well.  

PLEASE READ THE BOLTING BIBLE BEFORE BOLTING

https://www.slackademics.com/boltingbible

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How I rigged a complex 291m highline in Yosemite BY MYSELF in 12 hours

This was a dream of mine for years.  Justin Smestad and I helped Jerry Miszewski and Faith Dickey establish this in 2015, I rigged it with Friedi Kuhne, Lukas Irmler and Kyle Lovett in 2018 and now this time I rigged it 100% by myself in 11hrs 59min while I was hanging out with my friends Nick McPherson and Brian Ward.  I believe this is the largest line ever rigged completely solo and it’s Yosemite’s hardest line to rig currently.  I did enough pulling to equal hauling a 1...

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How NOT to weave spacenets - fancy ass patterns in the GGBY spacenet

How are all the fancy patterns woven in the spacenet for GGBY Highline Gathering?  Our expert weaver, Charlie Sand (@charlies_webs), shows us.   All these monkeys helped until their fingers bled: Michael T Vanderburg, Thanatos Mors, Tati Gaia Permact, Jason Man, Lorenzo DeMuro, Spencer McBride, Shea Servo, Michael Melner.  @TreeNetWilly and @treeweaves also make nets professionally.  Get your tickets at www.ggbygathering.org so you can play on this thing!


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Taping segmented highlines - Inov Split tape techniques

All my webbing is in 50 meter sections now.  Watch how I tape my main and backup slackline webbings together, add an extension and connect 2 pairs together with an inov split.  If you have ideas that could make this better, please leave a comment.  Please see our other Inov Split videos for how it works. 

Thank you Nick McPherson for filming and editing.


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Highline rescue practice at the ISA meeting in Bern Switzerland

It's great to practice rescues BEFORE you need to because it can be a lot more logistically complex than you might imagine.  Watch several different methods of rescuing we practice at the International Slackline Association safety meeting in this episode.  With Augustin Moinat, Simon Li, Charles Chillington Chater, Jason Clifford, Tlaloc Moctezuma Burns, Philipp Gesing, Joshua Leupolz, Kat Horton, and Sarah Gmeiner.  


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