SUKIMA SANGYO

[Making process] Fujiyama sankaku's Blue Archive Professor Niyaniya process and tips 1

Added 2025-07-23 23:39:37 +0000 UTC

This time, I had the opportunity to create a sample build of the Professor Niyaniya, sculpted by Takatori!

Takatori's X page：https://x.com/takatori_4692

Click here to purchase the kit! (BOOTH)：https://fujiyama3or9.booth.pm/items/7168975

In this post, I’ll go over some points that couldn’t be fully covered in the video.

Specifically, the following topics:

Fragile areas on the front hair piece and detail-up tips
Detail-up techniques and methods for the trunk case
How to embed magnets in the head and hat, and how to restore the sculpt afterward (explained in the video)
Assembly of the torso and coat parts
Fitting the left hand and face
Attaching the skirt

These are the parts that might not have been entirely clear from the video alone, so I’ve summarized them here.

Production Process – From Part Check and Surface Preparation to Test Assembly

▶ Part Check

Let’s start with the part check. This Grinning Professor kit consists of 50 parts, of which 19 are hair parts.

Since the hair parts are long and wavy, surface preparation takes a fair amount of time. Power through it with determination!

As mentioned in the production video, assembling the coat and torso parts can be a bit tricky, so be sure to do a thorough test assembly.

▶ Surface Preparation

Most of the surface preparation involves sanding the hair. On the flip side, other parts don’t take as much time.

Long hair kits have a striking visual appeal when completed, but they require a great deal of patience during prep.

To avoid burnout, try breaking up the work into 1-hour sessions and listen to YouTube or something in the background.

The rear hair parts look like this. This time, there was no need to bend them with hot water before sanding. The hair structure is a three-layer design, which seems complex at first, but each peg is labeled with codes like “A1,” so assembly is manageable.

Unlabeled parts are the front hair pieces.

Attaching Super Assilex #360 to a reverse-action sander can improve efficiency.

Assembled rear hair gives you a look like this.

The layered structure adds depth and dimensionality—something you can’t really feel until you build it.

The marked areas on the front hair are fragile.

They tend to break easily, and if you try to reshape with cyanoacrylate putty afterward, it’s tricky to maintain the original form—so it’s best to handle them carefully from the start.

Also, the intake area is sealed, so drill it out using a 0.5mm drill bit.

This intake also serves as the attachment point for the long front hair. Drilling thins the area, so the brass pin might show through—watch out for that.

Be cautious during this step!

Long hair often looks like it’s been sanded, but hasn’t been fully prepped. So, plan to sand it twice (very important!).

Do the second round after applying colored surfacer. It’ll reveal all the unpolished areas, so be thorough.

The trunk case has straight edges, so sponge sanding is not ideal.

Here, I used GodHand’s Edge File, which is wider and great for flat surfaces.

Some of the case latches were deformed, so I filed them off and rebuilt them.

It’s not that hard—just attach a fine nozzle to Cyanon and carefully apply. A good trick is to work in pairs (2 spots at a time) and let it cure before continuing to avoid mistakes.

For the head, I embedded magnets to make the hat easily removable.

Apply masking fluid generously where you want to insert the pin, stamp it to transfer the shape, then drill. Easy!

I initially thought two 3mm magnets would be enough, but they lacked holding power, so I also embedded a 5mm magnet. When embedding, drill about 1mm deeper than the surface so you don’t sand the magnet during cleanup.

Tried using Artima AT to drill a 5mm hole, but it lacked power—use a pin vise or electric drill instead.

Place the hat and check if it “clicks” into place. If so, you’re good.

Once placed, all that’s left is to refine the head shape, which I cover in the repair video. Feel free to watch if you're interested.

▶ 3 Key Points for Test Assembly

Let’s move on to test fitting. Here are 4 main things to keep in mind:

Torso and coat assembly
Avoid drilling all the way through halo guide holes
Left hand and face fitting
Skirt assembly

1. Torso and Coat Assembly

As mentioned in the video, the assembly is a bit special.

During test fitting, everything slides into place smoothly. But after painting (especially with matte coating), parts can become harder to fit.

To avoid scratching the paint, consider inserting a "protective sheet" between the coat and torso during fitting.

Also, the right coat sleeve might not fit into the peg after painting. Mask the peg beforehand or scrape off excess paint using a hobby knife before assembly.

2. Be Careful Not to Puncture the Halo Guide Hole

The halo peg holes can easily be drilled through. It’s not a critical problem, but ideally you’d avoid it.

Use a 2mm spin blade to adjust depth gradually. For the connecting rod between hat and halo, use Tamiya 2mm clear plastic rods.

Attach the halo with a small amount of cyanoacrylate—it’ll be nearly invisible.

3. Fitting the Left Hand and Face

Fitting these parts is a bit tricky—they tend to misalign, so be sure to learn the correct positions.

Also, follow the correct order:

Attach left side front hair strand
Attach left hand
Attach front hair

This is the starting state.

Attach left side hair strand.

Then attach the left hand.

Be careful about the left hand’s position, as shown here.

If this is misaligned, the front hair won’t fit, and you’ll wonder what’s wrong.

Alternatively, you can pre-assemble the left arm and fit it before the front hair, though it might interfere with the left leg, so be cautious.

From another angle:

If the left pinky rests on the cheekbone, you’ve got it right.

4. Skirt Assembly

The skirt is two-layered (front and back), so this assembly is also a bit special.

Start with the first skirt layer.

Then attach the second layer. First, place the back panel.

Then insert the front panel from above, aligning with the pegs.

Installing from above assumes you’ll fix the skirt in place. If not fixed, you can attach from the front instead, but that will leave a large visible gap.

To avoid that, insert the skirt from the top and use brass rods to secure the position. Then use an emboss heater to adjust the gap for better aesthetics.