Sukima's skin color painting method memorandum (paints needed to create pinkish skin)

I received a request about painting skin color, so I will post about it, though in my own way.

If you have any requests for articles like this, please feel free to comment! If you have any requests, please feel free to comment! I will try to explain as much as I can.

In this article, I will explain the following

・Selecting the tone of skin tone (orange or pink)

・The paints I use for skin tone painting and how to reproduce them (even for Creos)

・Density standards for skin tones

・Is there any influence of white surfacer to skin color?

・How to retouch peeling paint on the skin part

"I want to try painting garage kits!" Or, if you are trying, but your skin color does not look right, or your skin tone is too white or too dark, making you look brownish... I hope this will be helpful for those who are trying.

■Skin painting this and that

So let me get right to the point.

┃Skin tone tone selection (orange and pink)

First, orange and pink are used as basic skin tones for figures.

*Because these are basic skin tones, brown and blue skin tones are omitted. Also, since we are talking about figures, we will ignore the reality.

Until about 10 years ago, many figures had orange-based skin tones (most of Kotobukiya's figures in particular were orange...). The majority of Kotobukiya in particular were orange.

However, in the past three years, most of the finished figures sold by most manufacturers have been painted with skin tones based on pink.

This seems to be an industry trend, so those who want to create skin tones similar to the most recent manufacturer's finished products should aim to create pinkish skin tones.

Of course, I don't care about that! If you are of course not concerned about that, there is no problem at all in using orange. For example, if you are creating a Japanese character, the orange tone may suit the character better than the pink tone, so it is a good idea to switch between the two as needed.

It may also be a good idea to change the color to match the impression of the character you want to paint. If you want to paint a character with a lot of skin area and a slightly ecchi look, pink is a good color to use. 

On the other hand, if you want to apply it in a more modest and reserved manner, you can use less pink...and so on.

I think it would be appropriate to test several times and choose the color that best fits what you want to apply.

┃The paints Sukima use to paint skin tones and how to reproduce them

I often finish with pinkish skin tones as well, so the following is a summary of how to make the skin tones I have been telling you about for some time.

*All of them should be diluted with clear and solvent before use. (If the concentration is too thick, it will lead to a particulate feel and powdering of the painted surface.

・Gaianotes

059 (surfacer less fresh pink) + 060 (surfacer less fresh orange)

I split them 1:1 and keep them in stock for immediate use.

As it is, the orange color is quite strong, so I only use it as a base color for skin tone, applying it very thinly.

・Model Kasten

C-12（mucosal clear）

Apply a thin coat of 059+060 followed by an overcoat of C-12.

I have been making my usual skin tones with just these two processes. However, C-12 is not available outside of Japan.

So, as an alternative, I went through the paints I had on hand to see if there was any paint I could use.

*The Lascius in the photo was not tried this time.

As it turns out, the skin tone I am making can be made almost the same if you only have Gaianotes 059 and 060.

First, divide 059 and 060 7:3.

*This picture is already diluted with clear and solvent.

If this is painted as is, the color will look like this.

I've already created a pinkish skin tone with just this one.

The color is like this when compared to 059+060 divided 1:1.

The left tip below shows a coat of mucous membrane clear on this 1:1 059+060. What do you think?

They are almost the same color.

For the 7:3, I also applied a thin overcoat of 059 by itself. So it is a bit pinkish, but in fact, pinkish colors can be made without C-12 using only 059+060.

The only reason I use C-12 is simply because it has a large capacity and is easy to manage.

So there is no need to be disappointed because C-12 is not available in stores!

┃Reproduction of Sukima's pink skin is possible with Creos paints.

What about if you are mainly using Creos instead of Gaia? You may think that it is possible to reproduce the same thing with only C47 and C49.

However, when mixing C47 and C49, it is better to adjust the balance by slightly increasing the amount of orange at around 1:1.5, because 1:1 will give a strong pink color.

I can make pinkish skin tones in the same way.

Here is how the finished product looks when laid out.

The C47+C49 was adjusted by applying a thin coat of paint and then another thin coat of C49 by itself. After all, it is possible to reproduce my pinkish color using any manufacturer's paint.

(In a photograph, there is a difference in density, but as long as the colors can be reproduced, it's OK not to worry about it too much.)

So, if your local model shop only sells Creos paints! If you can't find the paint you are looking for, so please try the paints introduced in this article.

There is no such thing as you have to have a specific color from a specific manufacturer to reproduce a color.

┃Skin tone density standards are easy to determine with PVC finished products.

It is easier to understand if there is a standard for everything.

Therefore, in my case, I quite often adjust the density of skin tone by referring to finished painted products sold by the manufacturer or kits with skin tone painted based on them.

I wrote exactly the same thing about the painting of the hair, but I still think that recent PVC finished products are quite valuable as materials.

▶[Random note]I'll make a note of what I feel I need to pay special attention to in the painting of figure hair. 

It is easy to avoid the mistake of painting too thickly if you apply skin tones in thin layers and stop painting when the density reaches the same level as the standard value.

Even if you have your own standard density, the way you see the color will change depending on the brightness of the room and the weather, so I personally think it is a safe and error-proof way to check your skin color by keeping a PVC finished product on your desk as a reference for skin color density.

┃White surfacer primer (pseudo-surfacerless paint) has little effect on skin tone

The skin-colored parts of the figure are often painted with a clear primer such as Finisher's Multi-Primer and then directly painted with skin-colored paint, without using any surfacers.（called サフレス塗装）

However, if the resin is yellowing or the color is different in some parts due to filling in with putty, it is quite common to use a surfacer white and then apply a skin color with surfacer less paint like 059+060....

This method of painting is sometimes called "疑似サフレス When the surfacer is almost completely dry, it is almost completely unaffected by the substrate.

I used to apply a clear coat on top of the white surfacing before applying the skin tone, but if the surfacer white is allowed to dry thoroughly before applying the skin tone, the skin tone can be applied in almost the same way as if the white surfacing were applied without surfacing.

If the white surfactant is not dry enough, the skin tone will look strange, so you may need to adjust the drying time a little longer.

┃How to retouch peeling paint on skin area

It frequently happens that a skin-colored part is rubbed off during dry fitting and the color fades, If you have to reapply each time, I will never be able to complete the project.

In such cases, I thin C-12 with solvent and retouch with a brush.

I recommend this because it is a localized retouching that can be corrected to a level that is unnoticeable unless you are told to do so. Recently, an enamel version of Mucous membrane clear is also available, which makes retouching even easier.

Try this when you have a skin color that has peeled off! Try this when you have a skin tone that has peeled off. It's a super quick fix.

If you use it on an area with a thicker coating, it may be a little noticeable because of the large bumps. It is safer to think of it as a method to correct thinly painted areas.

This method can be reproduced by using Tamiya's enamel paints X26 and X27.

As I have said many times, there are few cases where a specific brand of paint is needed. It is possible to reproduce any number of combinations, so please feel free to give it a try!