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SUKIMA SANGYO
SUKIMA SANGYO

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Shiroko swimsuit (sculpted by Jose) wip part2 end

As for the paint, there is a small amount of color needed.

Let's take a look at a photo of the almost complete paint job before matting.



Hair and chemo ears:.

Surfacer gray/white, Evofresh for translucent bangs

Black for shade to create a gradation.


Swimsuit sides and collarbone area line and hairpins:.

Blue-green color. To be more precise, the shade color (CMY black + a trace of pure violet) was mixed with a little bit of blue-green, and a slightly less saturated color was applied thinly to both ends.


Fluffy chemo-ears:.

After applying the surfacer gray, a slightly diluted thin coat of surfacer white was applied to create a slight bluish tint that makes it easy to create a beautiful shadow color. The color will be clearly different from just painting gray.


Swimsuit, sandals, hair elastic:.

After applying Surfacer Gray as a base color, apply Black for Shade as described above to create shadows in the shadow areas, and blend it throughout.


*Black for shade here is a clear black made by mixing three pure colors cyan/magenta/yellow in the ratio of 1:1:1.

Immediately after mixing, the green color is strong, so the color is controlled by mixing an appropriate amount of pure violet into this mixture.

The range of expression can be expanded by applying this shade black over areas where you want to lower the saturation, or by mixing it with the base color.


Halo: Paint the entire body in clear blue.

After painting the entire area with clear blue, apply a thin coat of yellow-green mixed with pure yellow-green.


Skin area:.

Thinly undercoat with a mixture of Gaianotes Safresh 059/060, followed by an overall coat of Modelkasten's Mucous membrane clear C-12.

Elbows, knees, fingertips, and armpits: I applied a thin coat of Enamel Clear Red for a fine reddish tint.


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This is roughly how it looks. I think you can paint more simply. When I do it myself, it inevitably becomes more detailed...

This is about the density of the Safresh base coat for the skin area.


If I don't apply a thin coat, the skin tone will inevitably lean toward orange... Since pale pink is the current trend for figure skin, I feel that this base coat influences the color tone.

And here is a top coat of C-12 (left).


In reality, it is applied a little thicker than in the photo, but the minimum concentration would be about this. It is easy to make the groin, knees, fingertips, and other protruding, depressed, and terminal areas thicker to make them look fuller.

It is quite easy to apply, so there is nothing to explain. There are only a few parts, so if you paint them carefully, you should be able to achieve a higher degree of perfection...!

So here comes the eye painting.


I had a strong image of Shiroko in her swimsuit with her eyes narrowed in the official picture, so I used that image in my preliminary drawing. The dimples in her eyes are made, but I ignored them because of the image I had in mind. 

I draw up to this point and check the balance before clear-coating. (I won't explain, but the process after this is interspersed with clear coats each time.) 

The dimples in the eyes that cover the eyelashes that are there from the beginning will disappear in time, since I will clear coat them many times. So you don't need to worry about it.

It is better to take a photo of the eye check during the process to be sure.

Looking at the official picture, I don't need a gradient on the tips of the lashes, but I did it because it has become a habit to make a gradient.

Apply the base color light blue with a brush. I think I used Gaia Enamel's fluorescent blue and green, plus white for toning.

Over that, apply a slightly darker navy-ish color. It looks almost black in the picture, but it is a bit lighter.

I added highlights and shadows. I made the bright gradient of the left eye pupil with brush dots.

Then apply skin tone as usual, then add blush with clear red around the blush, ears, chin area, and eye area.

Finish by adding color to the fringe and eyebrows and matting.


After the matting is finished, put glossy clear on the lips and paint the piercing on the right ear.

Be careful, because it is easy to forget to paint the piercing!

To be honest, there is no trouble at all in the assembly process, so I omitted it.




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Jose-san's previous Asuna Bunny was very easy to assemble and paint, but this Shiroko is even easier to paint and assemble.


If you have purchased it, let's finish the surface treatment and paint it before the heat cools down!


Shiroko swimsuit (sculpted by Jose) wip part2 end

Comments

Thanks!!!I will try.

exia28

A 1:1 ratio of Gaia's 059,060 gives a strong orange tint, so changing this ratio to about 7:3 would produce a fresh, slightly ecchi skin tone. The ratio can be changed according to one's own taste, so do not think too much about it! For Creos paints, the clear pale red of the Lascius series may be similar to Modelkasten's C-12.

SUKIMA SANGYO

May I ask what is the approximate mixing ratio of gaianote 59,60? I can't get Modelkasten's Mucous membrane clear C-12 abroad, is there a alternative to gaianote or GSI cero paint?

exia28

I use paint thinner to clean the mold release agent before painting. 10 minutes soaking will remove some of the mold release agent. 6 minutes is just my mood lol. I often use this method because sanding the entire surface is tedious.

SUKIMA SANGYO

I forgot to ask, what do you use to clean and prep the figure before painting? Is it kerosene or alcohol for 6 minutes?

ChickP


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