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The Sauce Diaries: Author's Deep-cut Fashion Backstory

Why do you dress the way you do? I like chatting with people about this topic, so please comment. Okay, on with today's piece:

I have yet to receive so much derision for my vanity that I bury my entire closet in the back yard, so here is another installment of the Sauce Diaries. Why am I doing this? I hope to address the at-first-insufferable phenomenon of documenting one's outfits more thoroughly in a livestream, but here it is in a nutshell.

When I was very small, perhaps six or seven, my grandmother took me to buy a nice shirt. I think it was a Polo shirt. Typically my siblings and I were clad in hand-me-downs or unremarkable items from The Thrift Station — a creaky little secondhand store known as much for its rack of one-off, obsolete golf clubs as it was for one-off, obsolete fashion. But the arrival of this shirt on my scene, thanks to the compartmentalized ritual of its purchase, and the special place it came from, was something I sat and pondered deeply and often over my young years.

McCaulou's department store — pronounced muh'-CULL-uh's — was and is a clothing-only standalone in Danville, California. (Although, in that charming organic way of small-town shops, it included the counter where the local scouts bought their uniforms and badges.) It was the kind of place that Cost Money, but my beloved grandmother, Marva, who had grown up in an unplumbed farm shack, took quite gracefully to the trickle and then moderate flow of income that my hard-working grandfather began to generate as they grew old. So, with some gentle but assured means in place, she loved to reward us with a treat from McCaulou's on an unknown schedule that kept the thrill fresh. As the years tallied ho, and she noticed how much our little excursions meant to me, shopping trips for nice clothing increased in frequency — well into my high school career, until her arthritis became too debilitating. I suspect she knew that cowering young me needed the sort of supplemental assurance that good clothing provided.

I had a wealthy cousin for whom a trip to McCaulou's would have scarcely elicited a puff from the nose, but for me, each instance of light that reflected off the racks — matching racks! — and mirrors — mirrors! — was an instant to be savored; it held the promise of a fuller life, soon to be yanked away. Even the mannequins were so much better than I would ever be, but they didn't mind me examining their casually assured scarves and curiously delicate cardigans. I was mystified by clothing for pleasure, rather than utility.

After I had tried the shirt on in the dressing room, making sure the sleeveheads fell correctly at the edge of the shoulder and the belly draped comfortably but not excessively, the saleslady would fold it, wrap it in that crinkly tissue, and place it in a flat-bottomed McCaulou's handle bag for us. Back at home, I would sit with the shirt on the couch a while, holding its still-folded form, examining the texture of the pique, marveling at the tiny stitches that drew the horse, thrilling in my powerful knowledge of the not just grown-up but secret word "placket." (Incidentally, it was at my grandfolks' house where I first encountered a thesaurus.)  

I've run on too long with this, and want to have something to share in a livestream, so I'll end it here. But that's one of the bedrock reasons I find myself interested in clothing.

Clothing notes in photo captions.

  

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Comments

It is admittedly a hazard that cannot be completely avoided in the summer months. In the heat and humidity of the summer, I have found that remaining as motionless as possible, while partaking of something cool to drink, is the best mitigant. It has never been an insurmountable problem for me, though, and I think it may be possible that my feet, though gothic looking, tend to sweat relatively less than those of the general population. Furthermore, in an effort to take reasonable care of my shoes, I will generally not wear a pair more than once a week, to give them (the shoes, not my feet) time to recover, especially after a particularly swampy day. I relayed this discussion to my darling wife, and she reminded me that there was in fact an exception to my rule that I had forgotten, and she admonished me to correct the record, which I cheerfully do herewith. Prior to Covid, on a trip to London, I invested (and there’s really no other way to describe that particular transaction) in a pair of John Lobb lace-ups. When I explained to the gentleman who measured my feet that I did not under any circumstances (apart from exercise) wear socks, he was so taken aback- horrified, really- that I believe to this day that he strongly considered refusing my custom and peremptorily tossing me out of the shop. He politely, but firmly, insisted that putting one’s unclothed foot in a pair of made-to-measure shoes was simply not done (the sweat and oils will stretch and deform the leather, you see, causing the shoes to lose their shape and wear uncomfortably on one’s feet) and that there was no point to the expense (and - though he didn’t say this - to their craftsmanship and hard work) if I was going to treat them so roughly. I started to protest, but promptly folded, chastened, and sheepishly agreed to wear socks when I wore those shoes. A visual inspection of my drawers just now turned up one pair of over-the-calf dress socks (with a small hole in the right sock, where the smallest toe pokes out) that I do wear when I wear my John Lobbs (which, I should add, are the sturdiest and most comfortable shoes I have ever worn). So there you go- yet another example of an “ironclad” personal rule of style honored in its breach.

Jay Williams

Also, how the hell do you keep your feet from sweating and getting all sticky in your shoes if you never wear socks? I have never managed this feat, and I have tried.

Chris Onstad

Good god damn son, that is a drop. Thanks for the tip about cleaning the bucks — I got a scuff on them and have been scratching my head. We had no buck bags hanging from the backs of our California public elementary school chairs, like so many tiny white truck nuts. The rule about white bucks and summer is practical above all else: walking around Portland in these in winter would ruin them post-haste (and "dirty" bucks can be purchased separately). Madras, linen, and seersucker? Too thin and cold for a northeast winter. But not in California. Those rules are just as impractical out west as they are practical in the snowy academic cathedrals of our Separate Peaces. I'll take your Orwellian concept and run with it: I had a guitar teacher who taught me, correctly, that it is the accidental or "wrong" notes in a song — the sharp that doesn't belong in the key — which give it its flavor and emotional statement. So, make sure your outfit always has something wrong with it, and you'll be the fellow they all want to know.

Chris Onstad

I knew you were a straight playa, Onstad, and the white bucks just prove it! As one who’s style is frozen in the year 1987- part The Preppy Handbook and the rest actual prep school (where jackets and ties were de rigeur every day, unless it was truly sweltering; you knew it was hot when, after we said grace in the dining room (no A/C, like the rest of the school), the headmaster would stand and say, “I think we can dispense with our jackets this evening, gentlemen”, and a collective audible sigh could be heard), I own (and regularly clean, with a white rubber eraser and a chalk “buck bag”) two pairs of white bucks, which are the perfect summer shoe- dressy, but not too, and perfect without socks and with my loud summer wardrobe (pastels, madras, white linen suit, etc). But my only quibble is with your timing- as with madras, seersucker and other such fancies, white bucks are for me a strictly Memorial Day to Labor Day thing. However, I will concede that there are other “rules” that I freely break out of ignorance, contempt or just because I like the look of a particular thing, and on that point I will admit that the bucks really do pull your whole getup together, and the calendar be damned- my first reaction was a visceral “NO” but after a moment’s consideration it was clear that it worked for you. Sort of the reverse of Orwell’s rules of writing style- the last one was something like “break any of these rules rather than say something monstrous”; I say one should honor “convention” about dressing where consistent with one’s style, but break them rather than go against one’s look/style. I have only one iron-clad, all-season, never break rule: except for workouts, no socks. Ever. You can take me out of eastern North Carolina, but you can’t take the eastern North Carolina out of me.

Jay Williams

I, too, know the prison of an inflexible waistband (cue panel of a muffin-topping Emeril cursing delicious congee before Beef's wedding). To have that be the definitive sense-memory of youth is heartbreaking. Good on you for rebelling, and pioneering the hairstyle sauce you mentioned on a previous Sauce Week post.

Chris Onstad

This was great to read, thanks Douglas. How mediocre that dressing the way you wanted — albeit formal — wasn't accepted, just like every other mode of dress tends to be accepted. Perhaps if you'd had a top hat with steampunk goggles around the crown, or wore swirly basketball shorts beneath your Harris tweed, you'd have been captain of the cubicle. What's a silly version of the suit routine?

Chris Onstad

Bravo! When I was young I read that double-breasted suits were only to accommodate the proportions of girthy male frames, but happily I have since been convinced otherwise. I added a casual cotton db with peak lapels post-haste. Good on you for modeling classic men's dress in a healthy and accessible contemporary way — here I'm grateful to my grandpa and dad, here who showed me how to tie the ties and break the cuff, etc.

Chris Onstad

I was forced to wear skinny boys' hand-me-downs from my cousins. I was a chubby girl in preschool and early elementary school. Non-stretch denim in particular was my nemesis. The jeans had snap fixtures and would not stay snapped. The shirts too were western plaid style with stiff pointed wingy collars and pearly snaps instead of buttons which would also not stay snapped. And of course my family, being who they were, insisted not that the clothes were the wrong size but that I was inappropriately fat. I was bullied for this as well in that specific late 70s/early 80s way. AND SO from this sad beginning came one very particular rule regarding my clothing: NO STRUCTURE. Nothing constricting. Nothing snug, stiff, starched. It was flowy, stretchy, soft, scoop or V necks, etc. It has served me well as a lady whose size has varied from svelte to full term pregnant to kinda chubby and now trending back towards more svelte but the middle aged version. The foofoo in my hair and maintaining its length I believe is also a result of this early trauma. It's not like we were even poor either. They just didn't want to buy me clothes. This trauma dump brought to you by forgetting to take my meds overnight.

Julie (HiDeeHoGal)

As a lawyer from a family of bankers, I feel like I'm one of the few members of my generation who prefers to wear a coat and tie to work--prior to me getting my law degree comparatively late in life, I worked for multiple tech companies where my manager would take me aside and explain to me, in a friendly but concerned tone, that I maybe didn't understand the culture of the company I had signed on with. I had some flaccid rejoinder about the value of a work culture apparently based around not understanding what one's proper neck size for dress shirts was, but I inevitably gave into peer pressure and limited myself to tieless shirts with rolled sleeves. It's not the reason I changed careers nor should it be, but there's some part of me that still really likes wearing a full suit to work, and has particularly relished the opportunities it's given me to branch out a little in terms of sport coats, different fabrics, etc. A work life that previously seemed like one long halfhearted casual Friday is now one where I can dress up nice four days a week, and then try a silly one, and the balance makes sense to me in a way that I enjoy too much to find disturbing. I'm sort of surprised I went along with the Business Casual Gulag for so long--I could've been enjoying myself the whole time instead.

Douglas Wykstra

Went to a high school where I had to wear a sportcoat. Mom determined to always make it navy blue with fake brass buttons, the exact coat designed to make a man anonymous. The anti-sauce. So once, shopping for new school clothes at a close-out retailer I saw a double breasted hunter green sportcoat and said THAT. She hated it. I dug my heels in. But it also fit me and wasn’t expensive so I had the victory. Taught me that dressing “up” didn’t have to mean losing all sense of self. When I started teaching at a private school where boys have to dress up I decided I would model that for them. Also got over decades of toxic masculinity saying jewelry was only for women and now I’m a Ring Guy, too.

Dan Ford

Corduroy season brings out the dapper Japanese elder in us all.

Chris Onstad

Thanks Mark! I am just the tailor's dummy for the main event, but I appreciate the kind words. Here's an easy way to slip into the sauce game: cable-knit cardigan instead of hoody. Same comfort level and ease of use, but codes as sophisticated. Don't button the top or bottom buttons (got to let that belt buckle show), and wear it trim not baggy. Good luck out there. Report back with the good news.

Chris Onstad

Suave! God damn you're one suave fucker. Really appreciating the insights here. Saucewise, I need to first obtain a game, then step it up.

Mark Larkin

Unrelated: I'm watching sumo wrestling and a few minutes ago, I saw a stylish man in the audience who really stood out for me. I think it was mostly because he was essentially looking directly into the camera, but I also realized that something about him reminded me of you. If you were ~15 years older and Japanese.

Jacquelyn R Walters

Love it, especially the pants. Always love a wide leg, always love a cuff, always love corduroy.

Jacquelyn R Walters


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