What's the Deal with Seattle Dogs?

To anyone not from Seattle–and likely to a good number of locals as well–the Seattle dog is an oddity. The first time I had one, I didn't get it. I ordered it from a hot dog kiosk on the waterfront by the Aquarium. An all-beef frank served in a lukewarm bun with a line of cold cream cheese shot out of a caulking gun and a pile of unseasoned, lightly caramelized onions and peppers. Doesn't sound great, does it? And it wasn't. Despite the onions and peppers, there was very little flavor going on–nothing to balance the fatty saltiness of the hot dog the way sauerkraut or mustard does–and the addition of cold cream cheese came off as clammy and dense.

It wasn't until a few months later when I grabbed one outside of Climate Pledge Arena immediately following a Bruce Springsteen show that it finally clicked. The stand was called Deez Dogs, and Betty, who runs the cart, knows what's up. Her cart has a large, visible flame that adds char and texture to the fat sausages. Her onions were grilled hard then stewed in a skillet giving them the sweetness of caramelized onions with the charred flavor of grilled onions. The buns are those supermarket-style hoagie rolls: More significant than a hot dog bun, but still soft and squishy enough that it doesn't distract from the meat and toppings. That bun was heavily toasted and charred directly over the flame which added texture and flavor to the whole meal. Most importantly, her cream cheese was held closer to the fire so that it was warm, soft, and easily spreadable (no caulking gun required) onto the bun. The hot bun further melted it. The result was cream cheese with a texture much more akin to mayonnaise.

It lubricated and enhanced the wiener, rather than distracting from it, and finally I understood how the three elements could gel into a whole that is more than the sum of its parts.

The other revelation was that Betty not only suggested, but also encouraged adding extra toppings to it–I added pickled jalapeños and mustard which added heat and acidity to balance out the richness of the cream cheese and sweetness of the onions.

I may be a New York hot dog lover through and through (Gray's Papaya or Nathan's natural casing dogs with sauerkraut and brown mustard for me), but these Seattle dogs are nipping at its heels.

Dee'z is not the only place you can find a good Seattle Dog, of course. They can be found outside most sports and music venues and all around Capitol Hill. Look for a stand that has a line and visible flames for the best chances of a good one.

If anyone has got suggestions for their favorites, let me know!