Late Night Chilaquiles

There are very few times in which I'd use the word "soggy" as a positive descriptor. In fact, it's hard for me to think of a single occasion outside of chilaquiles, the classic Mexican dish of fried corn tortillas soaked in salsa and served with eggs and an array of garnishes. Oh, how I love those soggy nachos.

Perfect for breakfast. Perfect for late nights. Perfect for hangovers. Perfect for solo dining at a stall in a market in Mexico or a group brunch in Seattle.

But there's a difference between soggy and mushy, and that difference is what can turn good chilaquiles bad. Good chilaquiles are soggy and moist while still maintaining structural integrity and stiffness within each chip. Bad chilaquiles are chips that have gone soft and limp.

Surprisingly, this has less to do with how long the chips have been simmering in salsa more than it has to do with the initial thickness of the chips. Regular supermarket chips from a bag will quickly lose their structure, turning into a soft, spoonable pap within a few moments of saucing.

Freshly-fried tortillas made from fresh corn tortillas, on the other hand, maintain their crunchy core even after extended simmering.

(If you want a breakfast/egg dish made with store-bought tortillas, migas is the dish you're looking for.)

Chilaquiles Verdes Recipe

Every recipe I publish here is personally tested, tasted, and approved.

What I like about this recipe:

• Frying corn tortillas fresh gives you sturdy chips that retain some bite after simmering in salsa.

• Thinning the salsa slightly allows it to soak into the chips while still remaining juicy and moist.

YIELD: Serves 1 (but can be scaled for 2 or 4 easily)

ACTIVE TIME: 20 minutes

TOTAL TIME: 20 minutes

Notes: If preparing more than one portion, scale all ingredients except for the oil.

Ingredients

2 quarts (2l) vegetable, canola, or peanut oil

4 soft corn tortillas per person, cut in half then crosswise into strips

Kosher salt

1/2 cup (120ml) homemade or store-bought salsa verde

1/2 cup (120ml) water

2 teaspoons (10g) butter

1 to 2 eggs

Optional garnishes:

Thinly sliced white onion

Chopped fresh cilantro leaves

Mexican crema or sour cream

Crumbled cotija cheese

Avocado

Sliced radish

Directions

1. Line a large bowl wit ha couple layers of paper towels. Heat the oil in a large wok, Dutch oven, or deep fryer over medium-high heat until it starts shimmering. Dip a piece of the tortilla in it. If it bubbles gently, the oil is hot enough. Add the tortillas pieces and cook, stirring with a wire mesh spider until the bubbling slows to a trickle, and the chips are a pale golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. . Adjust flame to maintain temperature. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with paper towels. Fry 1/3 of tortilla wedges, using a metal spider to agitate them as they cook. Transfer the chips to the towel-lined bowl and immediately season with salt as you toss them.

2. Heat the salsa verde and water in a large straight-sided sauté pan over medium heat until simmering. Season to taste with salt. Add the chips and toss them to coat in the sauce. Remove the pan from heat and set it aside in a warm place while you cook the eggs.

3. Heat the butter in a small non-stick or cast iron skillet over medium-high heat until the foaming subsides. Add the eggs and cook until the whites are set but yolks are still runny, a couple minutes. Season with salt.

4. Meanwhile, as the eggs cook, transfer the chips to a plate. When the eggs are done, transfer them on top of the chips. Top with any or all of the optional garnishes and served immediately.