Perfect Roast Chicken

Serves about a roast chicken's worth of people

Active time: 30 minutes

Cooking time: 1 hour

Total time: up to two days

Notes: Use baking powder for extra-crispy skin. Or omit it if you want to. It's a pretty marginal difference. I like cooking this in a cast iron pan, but you can use any oven-safe pan.

Ingredients

1 whole chicken (3 1/2 to 4 1/2 pounds; 1.5 to 2kg)

9g salt (about 1 tablespoon Diamon Crystal kosher salt, 2 teaspoons Morton's kosher salt, or 1 1/2 teaspoons table salt)

2g (about 1 teaspoon) baking powder (optional, see notes)

1g (about 1/2 teaspoon) Freshly ground black pepper (optional)

Some fresh herbs, such as sage, rosemary, and thyme (optional)

Neutral cooking oil

1. Blot the chicken dry inside and out with a paper towel or a clean kitchen towel. Combine the salt, baking powder (if using), and black pepper (if using) in a small bowl and sprinkle it evenly over all sides of the chicken. For best results, transfer the chicken to a rack set over a large plate or rimmed baking sheet and refrigerate uncovered overnight or for up to two nights (do not go any longer or the skin will turn leathery when roasted. If you need to store it longer, cover it loosely with plastic wrap after the initial two day rest).

2. When ready to roast, preheat the oven to 425°F (225°C) if you have convection, or 450°F (235°C) if you don't. Stuff the herbs inside the cavity of the chicken.

3. It's best to watch the video for this bit and the next step. Truss the chicken by tucking the wings behind its back, then wrapping a 3-foot length of butcher's twine behind the breast (the neck side) and running it down the valley between the legs and breast. Cross the ends of the twine in front of the breast, then wrap each end around one drumstick, pulling them together taughtly to plump the breast and pull the legs together. Wrap the ends of the twine back and forth around the drumsticks a few times to secure them, then tie the ends together with a knot. Trim off excess twine.

4. Using a cake tester or wooden skewer, poke around 30 holes through the skin over the fat deposits of each thigh and each breast half (around 120 holes total). Flip the chicken so that it is breast-side-down. Use the tip of a sharp knife to make a 1/2-inch-long incision on either side of the backbone right where the legs meet the spine and where the wings meet the spine (four incisions total).

5. Heat the oil in a 10-inch cast iron skillet (see note) over high heat until shimmering. Place the chicken in the skillet back-side-down and allow it to cook without moving until pale golden brown, a few minutes. Using tongs, turn the chicken so that one side is in direct contact with the bottom of the skillet, propping the chicken up against the walls of the skillet to balance it in place. Cook until the skin on the thigh is pale golden brown, then repeat with the other thigh, a few more minutes total.

6. Turn the chicken back on to its back and transfer to the oven. Roast until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the deepest part of the breast registers 150°F (65°C). Transfer the chicken to a cutting board and allow to rest. The breast temperature will continue to rise for a few minutes, then drop back down. Carve and serve the chicken when it drops back down to 145°F or so.

7. If the skin softens during resting, you can re-crisp it just before serving by returning the chicken to a 500°F (260°C) for a few moments (use convection if you have it).