howNOTtoHighline

How Climbing Gyms Are Made

How strong are bolts in a climbing gym.  I have always wondered this while I'm falling through the air only being caught.... by plywood???  We found out it is all secured into the super structure of the metal framing behind the climbing gym wall.  Then it was fun to take some 11ply Birch Plywood and break test it.  Shear broke at 26kn or 5800lbf and in tension 12kn or 2700lbf.  It may not be that strong if 6kn was cyclically loaded on it or even a shock load but that ...

How NOT to Invest

Investing money is risky, not having enough money is even more risky.  I don't take risks, I manage them.  3 steps to financial freedom and a fulfilled life. Step 1: Spend less than you make. Step 2: invest the leftovers.  Step 3: go climbing or slacklining (do something that gives you purpose and is fun).  Some people get never leave step 1.  Some people get stuck at step 2.  Some people skip 1 and 2.  Let's explore the balance between getting money, invest...

Highlining 101: Section 3 of 7 - Highline Safety

Welcome to the original reason I started this channel… Highlining 101 or “How to use a highline that is already set up.”  This is 80 short videos squished into 6 categories and 7 videos.  You can skip along in the chapters in the timeline or watch the whole thing.  If you are a pro, we recommend you share this series with new highliners before you take them out for their first adventure.  This also would be great if festivals recommended this to anyone arriving that ...

How NOT to Bolt a Boulder (Parody)

We want everyone to bolt properly when they go pebble wrestling.  Be sure to use the most expensive duct tape and strongest hangers so that last several minutes while you and your follower climb that boulder.  In case you can't tell, this entire video is a Parody of the bolting videos that you can find at our bolting playlist https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLT3L-S4Bd4KCTAog1FH...

Highlining 101: Section 2 of 7 - Preparing to go Highline

Welcome to the original reason I started this channel… Highlining 101 or “How to use a highline that is already set up.”  This is 80 short videos squished into 6 categories and 7 videos.  You can skip along in the chapters in the timeline or watch the whole thing.  If you are a pro, we recommend you share this series with new highliners before you take them out for their first adventure.  This also would be great if festivals recommended this to anyone arriving that ...

Double sided climbing hangers? Dupla from Bonier

Here are the weirdest hangers I have seen, the Dupla hanger from Bonier found at https://www.bonier.com.br/dupla.  They are designed for a climbing rope to be threaded directly into them and the proved to be stronger than the rope.  These were donated by Greg Barnes from the ASCA, support their bolting efforts at https://safeclimbing.org/.  ...

Highlining 101: Section 1 of 7 - Buying Guide

Welcome to the original reason I started this channel… Highlining 101 or “How to use a highline that is already set up.”  This is 80 short videos squished into 6 categories and 7 videos.  You can skip along in the chapters in the timeline or watch the whole thing.  If you are a pro, we recommend you share this series with new highliners before you take them out for their first adventure.  This also would be great if festivals recommended this to anyone arriving that ...

Old School Wild Country Friends - Rigid Stem Climbing Cam Break Tests

How strong are rigid stem cams?  We tested several of the old style Wild Country Friends climbing cam.  Rigid stems are not flexible if pulled around an edge and we wanted to see when they break if you break the rules.  We damaged our LineScale2 but aren't too sad because LineScale 3 is almost out.  There is a discount on the first few units for sale and that can be found at ➜➜➜ 2021-01-27 14:30:01 +0000 UTC View Post

I SOLD EVERYTHING

I sold my house, my rental, closed my shop, closed Juno coffee and am going to do youtube full time.  As much as I'd like this to be a success story of how youtube made me filthy rich, its not quite like that.  We finally have achieved equilibrium on this channel where our donations match our expenses.  So now, by reducing my bills, I can live super cheap and spend all my time working on slackline.com, making videos and doing better science.  100% of your donations go into...

Is this 400 Stainless Steel? Bolt Busters

Nothing quite as productive as testing hangers that no longer exist!  Rumor has it that climbtech made a 400 series stainless steel hanger instead of 304 or 316 like many stainless hangers are made of.  They are magnetic and supposedly break without stretching as much as a other stainless.  They discountinued it but it was a discussion found on Mountain Project at ...

How to Bolt a Sport Climb Top Down - Rap Bolting

Wow, we finally did a description with helpful links!  Here is one way to install a new route starting at the top with a fixed line called “Rap Bolting”.  Some say if you can’t lead it don’t bolt it, others say the bolting job will be higher quality if you aren’t terrified the whole time.  What do you think?  While solo top rope climbing, Identify exactly the ideal placement would be, drill your hole, brush and blow it clean and place your glue in bolt (if that i...

Trickline webbings compared with break tests

We discuss and break different tricklines.  Here are some you can purchase... https://slacklineindustries.com/products/boss-line-kit https://amzn.to/2F3rhjC https://www.gibbon-slacklines.com/en/products/slackline-se...

CMI, don't exaggerate!

CMI Hangers break significantly below their rated breaking strength.  They are rated for 10,000lbs or 44.4KN and broke in these 3 tests we did in our concrete at 34.56KN (7,769lbs), 34.54KN (7,765lbs), 33.70KN (7,769lbs).... BELOW 10,000lbs.  If this is for the industrial world, which is even more regulated, this is shocking.  NO, you are not going to break these in any climbing or highlining scenario.  However, we should be able to trust the ratings stamped on our gear. &...

How to set up a TRICKLINE with Pulleys

Want to learn how to set up a trickline with pulleys?  This is better than rigging with ratchets and you can see how to set it up in this video.   How to set up your pulleys see Olga's video at https://youtu.be/y5q4G6h5bGI Pulleys in this video are SMC https://amzn.to/3hHk730  See us compare pulleys for longlines in this episode 2020-12-23 14:30:01 +0000 UTC View Post

Who Won??? LineScale2 vs 3tons of concrete

Invest in the LineScale3 at https://www.linegrip.com/LS3 - $2000 investment gets you a $795 LS3 as soon as it is made and as the other units sell you get ALL of your money back. Only 150 available.  This is not an affiliate link... I'm just stoked we have a good dynamometer available now.  148 available now... I just bought 2!  

If you want a shirt or hat, message me and I'll send you vectors and you can...

Core shot climbing rope tested

My friend Kyle Lovett had his climbing rope core shot on a highlining trip and so we tested how strong it was.  Stronger than we thought but way weaker than a new healthy rope.    

Live life high... safely.  It's all FREE at https://www.SLACKLINE.com/

Insane Trickline Forces!

Slackliners in the park play with 4kn.  Longliners may see 8kn.  Highliners see no more than 7kn in normal use.  Trickliners play with 15kn!!!  And 3ton trickline webbing breaks around 26kn so there is not much safety margin.    Thank you Olga Henry (@olga.henry), Dylon Lousberg (@slack.dylon) and Dillon Vance (@trampwalldillon) for helping with this episode.  Thank you Davis Hermes and Joe Wachter for donating gear for this series!  We have a new ...

Webbings tested with 16 different contaminants

Duane Burkhart contaminated and donated all these webbings.  Joao Portales edited this complex video.  Please tell us if you like 50 samples in one video if we can squeeze it into 10 minutes.  Hint: nothing we tested besides formic acid affected webbing.  We are not sponsored so please send $toke - donation links on website Live life high... safely.  It's all FREE at https://www.SLACKLINE.com/

How NOT to set up a TRICKLINE with Ratchets

Want to learn how to set up a trickline with ratchets?  You are limited to length with two ratchets but this is how you do it.  Bossline - https://slacklineindustries.com/products/boss-line-kit Surfer Line like in this video - https://www.gibbon-slacklines.com/en/products/s...

Fixe Triplex Removable Bolts tested

We test fixe triplex bolts (90mm at https://fixehardware.com/index.php/fixe-plx-duplex-ss-12-x-90mm-triplex-3-piece-bolt.html) in a lot of ways in a lot of things.  This episode has a lot more data, please let me know if you like more data per episode.  We were able to fit it in 10 minutes.    We are not sponsored.  Please send $toke ...

Trickline webbing break tested - including damaged webbing

How strong are tricklines and how strong are they damaged.  You will learn a lot about how webbing is weaved and whether or not you can trust your tricklines. Bossline - https://slacklineindustries.com/products/boss-line-kit Surfer Line like in this video - https://www.gibbon-sl...

Highline leash thimble rings break tested

Caleb Beavers is working on making giant leash thimbles.  See what happens when we pull hard on them.  Let us know what you think about the barrel knot.  Now available at https://www.spaceageslacklines.com/  We are not sponsored so please send $toke (donation links on website) Live life high... safely.  It's all FREE at https://www...

How NOT to Trickline - with big boobs and massive balls

Learn how to trickline after the first 2 minutes of us being silly.  If water balloons offended you in this episode hit that dislike button twice for redundancy!  Olga and Dylon have really good advice in the middle of this episode.  Thank you Olga Henry (@olga.henry), Dylon Lousberg (@slack.dylon) for helping with this episode.  Thank you Davis Hermes and Joe Wachter for donating gear for this series!  We have a new free Trickline E-BOOK by Olga Henry now! Live life ...

How to Bolt a Sport Climb

Bobby Hutton shows us how he bolts a new sport route in an area he has been developing for a while.   This place is great to go from the gym to outdoor climbing without the crowds.   https://www.mountainproject.com/area/113406457/emigrant-wall   

Show Bobby some $toke for all the time and money he has put into this area at 2020-10-14 13:30:01 +0000 UTC View Post

We CUT Tricklines - do backups work?

IMPORTANT - backup your trickline hardware with big enough stuff!  We test no backups, small backups and then measure the force on big backups when we cut many tricklines.  Our favorite trickline video yet!  Thank you Olga Henry (@olga.henry), Dylon Lousberg (@slack.dylon) and Dillon Vance (@trampwalldillon) for helping with this episode.  Thank you Davis Hermes and Joe Wachter for donating gear for this series!  We have a new free Trickline E-BOOK by Olga Henry now! ...

Climbing PITONS for aid climbing big walls TESTED!

We smashed in climbing pitons like you use for hard aid routes in big walling and then… PULLED THEM OUT with a pulley system and a dynamometer.  Lots of stuff on our slacksnap chart, these tests were samples #950-#958… all on our website.   Email passthepitonspete@hotmail.com if you want the book “Hooking Up”.   Dynamometer is LineScale2 https://www.linegrip.com/linescale-2/  &n...

What happens when you over torque a climbing bolt?

We didn’t tighten and then over tightened our ⅜” 5 piece power bolt with a basic hanger on it then pulled straight up to see how important recommended torque was.  We will test this again in harder rock but we didn’t notice any huge differences from the torquing itself.  Lots of stuff in the Bolting Bible and these break tests on the BoltBuster data sheet… all on our website. Live life high... safely.  It's all FREE at 2020-09-23 12:30:01 +0000 UTC View Post

Testing Climbing Figure 8s with Hard Is Easy

Ben from "HARD IS EASY" collaborated with us after many of you requested it about his figure 8 video found at https://youtu.be/QAr-uHd8h8o.  We pull tested both ways to tie a figure 8 and spoiler alert... it really doesn't make a difference.  But it sure is fun to watch shit break!  Let us know if you want us to collaborate on future projects and what you want to see.    See our free ebooks, ou...

Ball Nutz Break Tests - climbing gear destroyed in slow motion

Ball Nutz by Trango and CAMP are tested in real rock by real dudes.  They broke above MBS when they didn’t come out, and when they didn’t come out, they didn’t want to come out when we wanted to remove them!  I broke these because they suck and we love breaking things.  These are on our SlackSnap chart samples 959-965 on our website.   Email passthepitonspete@hotmail.com if you want the book “Hooking Up”. Dynamometer is LineScale2 2020-09-09 12:52:39 +0000 UTC View Post

Slackline webbing breaks super low! Testing Nova

@Joosep_ress discovered his newer nova broke pretty low so Adam Kaminski did some tests and got around 17kn.  Nova webbing is rated for 27KN!!!  @timothy_mchone sent in some newish Nova webbing and we also got around 15-17kn.  Demand that slack companies step up their quality control while at the same time be understanding how hard it can be to make gear and run a business.  They have made a public announcement to not use this webbing for highline use until further researc...