[making process]Blue Archive Toki bunny girl making Process & tips1

Parts check - surface treatment and some parts that require processing

Once you have purchased a kit, please start by checking the parts. Failure to do so will prevent you from requesting parts, so please do so as soon as possible.

This Bunny Toki is 41 parts + decals.

Once you are sure that all the parts are in place, you can proceed with the sanding process.

┃What is the purpose of sanding (filing)?

To remove seam lines and gates.

Garage kits inevitably have burr-like defects called seam lines in the parts manufacturing process, which need to be removed to make the parts clean.

In addition, the purpose of this process is to fill air bubbles in the parts with adhesives such as Cyanon or putty to even out the surface, and to erase the layers that were not fully processed in the prototype stage before the kit was duplicated.

In addition, sanding is essential before painting, as it removes mold release agents from the surface of the parts.

Be careful, however, if you file too much, you risk causing air bubbles that were buried inside to appear on the surface.

Therefore, I file only for the purpose of removing seam lines and gates, and I consider the removal of mold release agent only as a secondary effect.

The scary thing is that sometimes, as a result of filing all the parts too carefully and thoroughly for the purpose of removing mold release agent, the surfaces of the parts become covered with air bubbles (I have had this happen...).

To avoid this, it is important to first check for the presence of air bubbles.

You can check to see how many bubbles are present by shining a smartphone light on the part and looking through it. Here is how to do it.

https://twitter.com/sukimasangyo2/status/1741115676671234342 

This check would help us to determine how much sanding is acceptable.

Some kits have air bubbles near the surface, and in such cases, filing may be kept to a minimum to avoid the need to fill in the bubbles.

Filling in microbubbles takes a lot of time, so if the bubbles are not on the surface, there is no need to fill in the bubbles. Let's keep doing what we can to make it more efficient.

┃Processing the bangs into one piece might make it more complete

I guess the first processing that I would recommend for this bunny Toki would be ”integrating the split bangs”.

It is not that difficult to do, and it will not be a problem when painting, so I would like you to do it. It seems that they are only divided for the convenience of reproduction, so let's unify them as one piece. If not, it will be very noticeable like this.

When integrated, it becomes quite blends in.

Here's how it compares.

The video shows the working procedure, so if you refer to that, you can do it.

┃The ground surface of the chair and buttocks is magnetic

The second recommended processing is to embed magnets in the ibis body and the chair's ground surface. Although there is a round dowel to connect the chair to the main body of the ibis, it is one idea to hammer a shaft to prevent the chair from tipping over. However, I personally prefer to use magnets for this type of work.

Therefore, I embedded magnets in the buttocks and the chair so that they can be grounded.

I think N52 neodymium magnets (about 4mm) from Hi-Q parts would be able to fix it firmly.

┃How to secure the hair in the back

Now, the third recommended processing point is hair backside. it is designed to be assembled with seven dowels, but each hair tuft is quite heavy, so a single brass wire alone tends to slip down.

So, if you use two pins, 1mm and 0.5mm, as in the third dowel from the left, the axis will not slip down.

Also, since gaps tend to form between the back of the head and the back of the hair, filling them in nicely with putty or something similar will improve the finished product.

Also, the area of the back hair image indicated by the arrow below is  also prone to gaps. So, ideally, it should be fitted with a brass shaft  as indicated by the orange horizontal line. (The image shows the gap  with all its might.)

If you paint it as is, the gaps will stand out to the fullest.

If you notice it after painting, you can recover well enough, so if you have extra power, it would be better to correct it to improve the finish.

I'm not sure if there are any other parts that will be troublesome

As I said at the beginning, it is a simple kit, so if you do the surface treatment carefully, you will have almost no trouble, so please try your best!