48mm motor on Y

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Rev2: 4248_rev2.1.zip

• another minor tweak on the motor mount to help print better without support, tested and printed nicely without support, just make sure you have good PETG bridging - new STEP in the zip

Rev2_alternative: download alternative part here

• For setups that needs the belt a bit offset to the right, the motor is now moved 2mm to the right. This will likely not work with my dual linear rail Y printed setup (use rev2 from the zip), but meant for setup with aftermarket single linear rail on top. where the belt and the linear rail interfere.

Rev 1:

• minor tweak on the motor mount to help print better without support (no need to reprint if yours already printed well from rev0)
• added the step file if you want to tweak things

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Add painted support if your bridging isn't great

motor naming convention:
42x48
as in 42 width/height, which is the common Nema17 size
and 48mm long (shaft direction, but excluding shaft)

stock Y was 34mm long, and in my opinion underpowered for such a heavy bed
extruder size motor 42x40 should have been the normal minimum size.

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Only tested on ender3v2, but should work 3pro since it has a 4040 Y profile

You can install a 4248mm motor on Y

NO PLA for the motor block, PETG or preferably better, as that gets hot, though bigger motor tend to run cooler than stock Y

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Motors to buy:

• You can reuse the Extruder motor 4240, but had already done that long ago
• STEPPER ONLINE 17HS19-2004S1 (about $11~13/motor)
  omc-stepperonline.com (you can find it in pack of 1,3 or 5), can also be found on amazon and aliexpress
• LDO Motors 42STH48-2504AC (about $24/motor)
• or any nema 17 42x48 or smaller in height motor will fit

use M3 screw for the motor

and M5 for mounting the block to the aluminum extrusion

right M5 screw has to be a button head (stock screw should do)

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Enstop

Not sure how the ender3 and pro have their endstop mounted, but on the 3v2 it was a piece that was dependent on the motor block and wouldn't work with this, so I also made a little endstop holder, use 3 heat inserts (usual ones)

M3x4mm(L)x 4.6mm or 5mm (OD)

two for the endstop PCB, and one to close the cover

might need tolerance tweaking to close pretty but will work (and will tweak it if needed)

and use M3 T-nuts to mount.

if you need a M4 t-nut version let me know, I'll eventually make it as soon as someone needs it.

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remember to change your current or vref.

current/sqrt(2) = RMS current that klipper requires should be a good starting point to test. Too much current is bad as it will tend to overheat and physically damage stuff, too little will just skip steps.

Edit: 1.4amp runs a little warm but won't hurt it, still cooler than stock Y, so should aim lower than RMS, somewhere around 1.2 amp might be better, unless you need more oomf

For board with vref and no direct current control, it depends on your stepper driver, initial reason I went for an aftermarket board to not deal with vref.