squirrelf3d

SaturnOrbiter instructions

Added 2022-01-15 01:08:28 +0000 UTC

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This is a tiny bit outdated, should still give you most of the info needed, heat insert count is probably off (Bltouch offset have been updated ) , if you have doubts on anything don't ever hesitate to contact me on discord.

And heat inserts can now both be 4.6mmOD or 5mmOD, but still 4mm long = ( 5.7mm might be ok in most places,. but 4mm max length required in a few spots)

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Material

If using outside an enclosure, PLA is totally fine, But strongly recommend PETG or better for the two duct parts. You can always start with PLA and it will work fine, but there is chance of it getting warped. They are easy to change even after the Saturn is fully installed.

If using inside an enclosure, you probably know not to use PLA.

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Print Infill

Only part needing higher infill is the printed backplate (30 to 40%), as it's the supporting core for the hotend/direct drive (I have used an 18% infill and it works fine, but better be safe than having to reprint later)

All other pieces, including "main body" can use lower infill (13-25%). Unless using some material that need more infill for whatever reason.

I personally use gyroid, but any other type is fine

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Ender5plus users:

You will need to move your X endstop, and make sure to set you printer X min/max so that the bltouch doesn't hit the left side

(in klipper you just start with a larger min/max, and after homing move your printer head using the interface to the min/max point note down the values, and use those in your config, those values can be beyond the printer bed, your slicer software settings is responsible for not printing outside the bed area)

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Stock style hotend user (includes dragon BMS, Taichi, etc...):

No heat inserts behind the hotend, just one long screw will go from the front of the hotend, through the hotend, printed backplate, and screwed into the metal backplate.

For most hotend it should be a couple M3x20 screws

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Jan 17: Stock hotend is now supported!!!

Jan 22: Added a bunch of images

Jan 23: Dragonfly BMS now supported!!

Jan 25: E3Dv6 / groove mount now supported!!

Don't be discouraged by the length of this, it's long just because of extra details, but it's really fast and easy to setup. heat inserts is probably the most time consuming. I'm working on a full 3d animated video (heat insert part is done see below).

You don't need to cut/solder or rewire your cable all the way to the printer motherboard with this shroud (unlike the MarsOrbiter), but if you want it clean you might need to, at least you can push that to another day.

Purchase list (I get a small commission on affiliated link, I have no direct affiliation with each aliexpress store themselves, I just bought from them and had no issue with my order sent to the US)

Harder to find individual screw part on amazon, they mostly have set of which more than half of the stuff remains unused, so I personally prefer sourcing from aliexpress. But support local business if you can.

5015 Fans: Gdstime 24v dual ball bearing: link - affiliated link
M3 screws socket head (DIN912) - M3x6 (most used), M3x8 (a few used), M3x10 (sherpa mini), M3x12 (not needed but common), M3x16 (Dragonfly BMS), M3x20 (side fans), M3x25 (front fan): link - affiliated link
M3 screws button head (if you want you can use this everywhere instead of socket head), this project only requires two M3x8 button head for rigid mounted hotend (but may actually fit a socket heat just perfectly, but use button head to play it safe), two M3x4 button head for generic ADXL345: link - affiliated link
M2.5x4 screws button head only for Adafruit ADXL345: link - affiliated link
Brass Hot Melt Insert Knurled Nut - M3(OD 5mm) - Length 4mm : link - affiliated link - alt link (M3x4x5) - alt affiliated link (M3x4x5)

Print List:

- Main Body + Roof:

Lower infill is fine 15% to 20% - 2 or 3 walls
You will find multiple version of the main body, the difference is how they wrap around the hotend to improve airflow onto the heatsink

- Backplate - directdrive & hotend mount:

This needs to be solid, higher infill like 40% is a good idea, and thicker walls (3 or 4)
This will be the bridge between the printer, the direct drive and the hotend, so the actual supporting core. The file will differ depending on the direct drive system/bowden and hotend. The folder structure should be easy to figure it out. Rigid mounted hotend and groove mount will have a second part to be printed

- Ducts:

Lower infill is fine 15% to 20% - 2 or 3 walls
Print those slowly, to have nice sharp corner.
I print those vertically as the finish is better, but I tested it with flat side down and it prints totally fine without support, but the finish was rough on the outside on my prints (could also be my temps, nozzle and/or filament)

- Probes:

Lower infill is fine 15% to 20% - 2 or 3 walls
Mount for bltouch/crtouch or 12mm/18mm probe like EZABL
Extras:
those are just additional parts like for fan 4010 spacer or temporary ones like BMG mount, And a small piece to slide in the 5015 mounting hole to reduce the spacing between M3 and the M4 hole on the fan

Hardware list:

- Ender 3, Ender 3pro, Ender 3v2, CR10

- hotend: Dragon, Rapido, DragonFly BMO, RevoVoron (later DragonFly BMS and stock, and maybe more)

- Optional Direct drive Extruder - Orbiter 1.5, Orbiter 2.0, Sherpa mini, BMG (and maybe more)

- 2 5015 radial fans

- 1 axial fan 40x20 or 40x10 fan + 4010 spacer (in Extra folder)

- Heat inserts - M3 x 4mm (Length) x 5mm (OuterDiameter)

15 heat inserts - M3x4x5 (you can use longer ones up to 6.5mm in most places except the side fans, and backplate ender3v2 mounting hole), heat inserts holes are 4.7mm, meant for 5mm outer diameter, but might work with slightly smaller ones as the holes will closer to 4.3mm once printed
3 more heat inserts for a rigid mounted hotend (Dragon, Rapido, DragonflyBMO, RevoVoron, etc...) - M3x4x5
2 more heat inserts for groove mount- M3x4x5
4 more heat inserts for BLtouch/CRtouch - M3x4x5
2 more heat inserts for 12or18mm Probe - M3x4x5
2 more heat inserts for Generic ADXL - M3x4x5
2 more smaller heat inserts for Adafruit ADXL - M2.5x3mm(L)x3.5mm(OD)

- Screws

6 screws M3x6 ( m3x8 are compatible in most places as well )
2 screws M3x8
4 screws M3x20 - for side fans
4 screws between M3x24 and M3x30, you can also use M3x20 if the fan has recessed screw hole like Noctua 4020

- Additional screws for a rigid mounted hotend (Dragon, Rapido, DragonflyBMO, RevoVoron, etc...)

3 screws M3x6 ( or m3x8 )
2 screws M3x8 button head or thin socket to screw backplate into X gantry metal plate sitting behind the hotend
4 screw M2.5x8 (usually included with hotend) for Dragon, Rapido, DragonflyBMO
4 screw M3x8 for RevoVoron

- Additional Screws for stock hotend or Dragonfly BMS

2 screws M3x20 - stock hotend
2 screws M3x16 - Dragonfly BMS

- Additional Screws for groove mount (E3DV6 / dragon / Dragonfly BMO )

2 screws M3x8

- Additional Screws for Direct Drive or Bowden

2 more heat inserts
2 screws M3x8 for Orbiter Extruder 1.5 and 2.0
2 screws M3x10 for Sherpa Mini

- Additional Screws for extra hardware

4 screws M3x6 for a bltouch/crtouch
2 screws M3x6 for a 12~18mm probe
2 screw M3x4 (button head) for Generic ADXL345
2 screw M2.5x4 (button head) for Adafruit ADXL345

Installation:

Put all the heat inserts in the needed places

I use my solder iron at lowest temps available which is 200C and that works great, plastic doesn't burn. If your soldering iron tip is too long (not an issue for most holes, but is for the ADXL, otherwise you will simply go through and through), you can stack two heat inserts, JUST BE VERY CAREFUL as that second heat insert could fall at any time and will be 200C, hot mine usually stayed on it, mind yourself and the environment where it could fall onto.

Most places are easy to insert them. Only harder ones are the two bottom side fans inserts where you have to push with the side of the solder iron tip, but I did it multiple times without issue. If you really struggle with it, I can make a version without the small side walls.

- Backplate:

2 on the front
1 more on the front center if you have a rigid mounted hotend
1 in the back only for ender3v2 (because the screw goes from the back of the metal mounting plate through a non-threaded hole), on ender3/pro that hole is threaded so the screw is screwed from the front

- Bltouch/CRtouch

2 where the bl/crtouch with screw into.

- Rigid hotend mount:

2 in the rear holes

- Main body:

4 on the underside (to mount the ducts), push those a little further in by 0.5 to 1mm
4 on the front for the front fan
2 on the right side (for the right fan)
2 on the left side (for the left fan)
2 on the back left side for the z probe (bl/crtouch or 12/18mm probes)
2 on the left side for the ADXL345, either m3 for generic, or m2.5 for the Adafruit one
1 on the back side for the back cable cover (ender 3 only) - not on the animation

As of Jan22 update:

2 on the top of the backplate for direct drive mount, just the direct drive mount, so the outer ones only, not in the screw holes close to the back to hold the rigid hotend parts

Same animation but on YouTube (right now in 1080p, but will update it later to 4K because why not and will be one full length anim with all the steps) - these are heavy gif (15MB), let me know if if they load ok or if you prefer just the YouTube animation

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Mount the Backplate ( & hotend if stock or Dragonfly BMS)

For V6 type hotend, two screws where the stock hotend would normally be mounted - M3x8 button head

For stock, use M3x20

DragonFly BMS use M3x16

On ender3v2 only you will screw the M3x6 from the back of the metal mounting plate, and will go through the heat insert you previously installed in the backplate part.

On other machines, you will screw the M3x6 through the front (no heat inserts there), since the metal mounting plate has a threaded hole.

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Mount the Hotend (rigid mounted V6 style hotend)

Secure small hotend printed mount to hotend. Have heat cartridge/ temp sensor cables go to the right. If there is not enough clearance once adding the Main Body, please let me know.

For the Rapido hotend, you will notice there are 8 holes on the printed mounting plate, it seems that depending on how the hotend was built, the cable will stick out at different angles, from CAD drawings of it, it would fit the Dragon orientation, but the one I have I needed it rotated 45degree (rather than take it apart and rebuilt it, adding 4 extra holes was easier) so just make sure the wires come out aiming toward the back right. Basically aiming toward 2 o'clock when facing your machine and looking down at it.

Then secure that hotend mount + hotend to the backplate.

One single M3x6 on the center front, and two M3x6 on the top

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Mount the Hotend - Groove mount - E3DV6 / Dragon / Dragonfly BMO

I recommend mounting the Dragon / Dragonfly BMO using rigid mounted instead.

But I did add a rotation lock collar version for the Dragonfly BMO

This has two pieces, use two M3x8 to secure the groove collar to the back plate.

for E3Dv6 clone with direct drive, there is an optional print to replace the M10 pneumatic fitting, just to guide the PTFE tube and add a bit of friction on it.

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PTFE length for Direct Drive setup:

Now might be a good time to measure and cut the bowden tube between hotend and direct drive in case I don't have the info and you need to figure it out through trial and error.

Length will be different depending on the combination:

If you have a way to measure the missing info, please let me know so I can update the info here.

DIRECT DRIVE:

Orbiter1.5 hole depth: 11mm

Orbiter2.0 hole depth: 6.75mm

Sherpa Mini hole depth: 8mm

HOTENDS:

Stock bottom to roof: 58.55mm

Rapido hole depth : 15mm

Rapido HF to roof: 17.45mm

Rapido UHF to roof: ?

Dragon hole depth: 1mm

Dragon/Dragonfly BMO top to roof: 25.20mm

Dragonfly BMO hole depth: ?????? (let me know so I can add it)

Dragonfly BMO top to roof: 25.20mm

Dragonfly BMS hole depth: 21mm

Dragonfly BMS flat top to roof: 20.60mm

RevoVoron hole depth: ??????

RevoVoron to roof: 22.45mm

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some precalculated value given to me:

orbiter 2.0 + v6: 47.25mm

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CALCULATE PTFE LENGTH:

DirectDrive hole depth + ( hotend hole depth + hotend top to roof)

i.e: Rapido HF + Orbiter 1.5 = 11mm + 15mm + 17.45mm = 43.45mm

You may want to add an extra 0.2~0.5mm extra just in case, as there is the tolerance factor to take into account,

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ADXL345

M3x4mm button head for Generic ADXL345

M2.5x4mm button head for Adafruit ADXL345

I'm still unsure if it's a good or bad idea to have it where I have it now, but if it works out it will be nice and stealthy while alway available for testing. If you don't want its connected all teh time, you can alway keep it there and run the test without the left fan, the difference will be minimal with out without it. I had similar result with completely different shroud and fans, the rest of the printer is more responsible for resonance than just a single fan taken out of the equation.

If you are going to use one it will likely be easier to mount and secure the ADXL345 to the Main Body before mounting that.

You will probably need thin flexible cable to have it connected full time

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Mount the ducts to the main body

Four M3x6 screws, make sure those are tight. I'm aware there might be a tiny be of air leaking depending on how bad the duct printed (I have one printed really fast and edge are rounded) nothing that will affect the printing, as 99.9% of the air will still go through the duct output (I tested with my worst duct print that I printed really fast, and 100mm bridging was no issue at all) - so unless you really see an issue, I think I will keep it as is. (initially I was thinking of adding a small M2.5 screw toward the front outer corners)

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Mount the main body

Should slide straight on, mind the hotend cables do not pinch/kink them.

You will secure the Main body to the backplate with two M3x8, but don't tighten them yet, screw them in 95% of the way, as the roof part will be pinched through the gap you see on top.

And a third screw, M3x6, where the left fan will be, which will screw into the metal mounting plate. you can and should tighten that one.

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Front Fan

Install your front fan, if the fan has recessed holes you can use M3x20. otherwise anything between M3x22 and M3x30 will fit. wires coming from the left side will rest on it, so that's why we are installing it before the left fan or probe.

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ADXL345

If you want to wire the ADXL345 full time, now is the time.

I think using a flat flexible ribbon ethernet cable is the best approach for that, haven't done it myself yet, but will soon to try it out. If that fails I will most likely rethink the placement of the ADXL

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Left Fan

Install your left fan (make you didn't forget to mount the main body to the back plate from the a few steps ago, since the mounting hole is behind the left fan)

Wire will go above the front fan , but behind that left mini tower, and into the cable route in the right side fan area

In the extra files you will find a spacer to reduce the hole in the fan.

Two M3x20, don't over tighten.

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Z Probe - Bltouch/Crtouch/Ezabl

Mount your probe to the mount, two M3x6 for Bltouch/Crtouch.

Attached the cable to it, and mount it to the main body, using two M3x6 on the left back side.

You can route your wire however you want, I have mine going above the left fan and above the front fan, then in to the right fan area cable channel.

I will later add a cable route around and behind the left fan.

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Install Roof / Cable cover

it will just slide on the top. You might need to lose the screw holding the main body to the back plate a bit, and but a little pressure on the roof, tolerances are tight. If you want to later route the Extruder motor cable on the left side of the roof and under it, don't secure it yet

Then tighten those screws again going through the front too holes, which will secure the roof in place. So remember to loosen those screws first before removing the roof later if you need to.

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Direct drive

If you didn't install the PTFE tube yet that goes between hotend and direct drive, do it now.

Slide two square nuts (or hex nuts), thiner ones will be easier to slide in, but others should fit with a little pressure using your hex too to push them for instance. (later iteration might be replaced with heat inserts), and slide them were they need to be.

With, at least, the orbiter extruder you can wire the cable either on the left or right side of the roof opening (meaning you might have to unsecure the roof to go through the left side, then re-secure it), and then into the right fan area cable channel.

Two M3x8 for Orbiter 1.5 / 2.0

Two M3x10 for Sherpa

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Right Fan

Tuck all the wires from left fan/front fan/Extruder/ADXL345 as best you can in that channel, they will have a tendency to want to get out, then slide the right fan from the top with wire going in that vertical slit, should fit flawlessly, and wire will meet all the other wires.

In the extra files you will find a spacer to reduce the mounting holes in the fans, porbbaly not required, but less change of the fan moving around (not that they will even without those)

Two M3x20, don't over tighten.

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Finish Cable management

Secure your wires into that back vertical cable channel with zipties.

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Firmware settings update for probe offset

I will create new post to get the most out of your bed mesh leveling, and probe as much surface as possible (at least in klipper, doable in Marlin just very time consuming)

Bltouch/Crtouch:

- V6 Style hotend, Dragon, DragonFly BMO, Rapido, RevoVoron

X: -54.7

Y: -6.7

- stock, dragonfly BMS, TaiChi

X: -54.7

Y: -12.2

18mm Probe:

- V6 Style hotend, Dragon, DragonFly BMO, Rapido, RevoVoron

X: -58.19 Y: -6.94

- stock, dragonfly BMS, TaiChi

X: -58.19 Y: -12.44