3dprintingworld

Build your own Viking Sword #4

This is the third sword in the Build your Own Viking Sword series. Its a modular sword system similar to Build Your Own Katana but in a Viking sword style. The guard, pommel and wrap on each sword are different and interchangeable with the others.

Supports are not required, for best results use a .4mm nozzle. You can print the blades all at once concentrically or one at a time in vase mode. I suggest printing in vase mode but if printing concentrically, the test print can be found 2025-04-25 21:33:42 +0000 UTC View Post

Collapsing Sword of Divine Temper

This is a collapsing version of Perseus's sword of Divine Temper from the original Clash of the Titans movie. One of my favorite movies when I was a kid. If you have not seen it, there is some classic claymation.

The blades print separately, there is a plug on the pommel that screws in. I printed mine in vase mode. The jewels are printed separately and are glued on, there are locators for them.

I did use supports for the underside for the arch. Not sure if they are 100% neede...

Sanemi Shinazugawa's Collapsing Sword

The cap on the replaceable blade version of this sword is not glued on but is removable by squeezing its sides, the blades then can be printed separately and inserted or replaced.

The multi-part version of the sword has been broken down to different parts so they can be printed separately in different colors and assembled.  The multi-color and multi-color/part versions are similar but the wrap is printed separately on the muti-part/color version. This version will waist a little ...

Mara Jade's Collapsing Lightsaber

This is a multi-part design where the hilt is split into different stl's so it can be printed in full color with a single color printer. The cap screws on so the blades can be printed separately in different colors and inserted or replaced.

There are locators which make it easy to glue on the parts. I used Starbond medium CA glue

For best results use a .4mm nozzle. You can print the blades all at once concentrically or one at a time in vase mode. I suggest printing in vase mode ...

Collapsing Rondel Dagger #2

This is the second Rondel Dagger, much fancier than the first one. I wanted to verify that the concept would work before I made one with a lot of details. You can print this one two different ways, depending if you have a multi-color printer or not. If you do print the multi-part version, you will need some good bridging, or just enable some supports.

Supports are not required, for best results use a .4mm nozzle. You can print the blades all at once concentrically or one at a time in ...

Princess Buttercup's Dagger

I was not sure how this one would turn out because of how petite the handle is but it really did turn out good. I made it a little taller than is ideal so it would look proportionally correct. You can get both colors with a couple filament swaps at layer heights. There are two caps, one version has a slot so it can be more easily unscrewed. There is both a replaceable blade and a print-in-place version available.

Supports are not required, for best results use a .4mm nozzle. You can p...

Shin Hati's Collapsing Lightsaber

I made two versions of this lightsaber. One version is long, a more similar scale to the actual lightsaber. The other version is shorter, to more match the scale of the rest of my lightsabers. There are two version of each size; a multi-part and a multi color version. The multi-part version prints separately in different colors and glues together. Along with some manual filament swaps you can have a full color version with a single color printer. The multi-part version prints all at once, you...

Rahm Kota's Collapsing Lightsaber

This is a multi-part design where the hilt is split into different stl's so it can be printed in full color with a single color printer. The cap screws on so the blades can be printed separately in different colors and inserted or replaced.

There is two versions of the grip, one version has built in supports and is designed to be printed at a .2mm layer height.

For best results use a .4mm nozzle. You can print the blades all at once concentrically or one at a time in vase mode....

Folding Fidget Knife

You can open and close this knife with one hand by holding one side and flipping it in the right orientation to gravity to get it to open and close. It's a really fun fidget.

It prints as two print in place pieces that snap together in the closed position. Both parts have build in brims. Its a tall print without much contact with the bed. If the brims causes any issues, let me know.

Printed with 2025-02-08 14:14:50 +0000 UTC View Post

BYOK #8

The eighth addition of Build Your Own Katana might just be my favorite! Its also the first one to have a multi-color version. I may go back and colorize some of the previous versions because I really like the way it turned out. I like that you can print the guard and cap in different colors and not waist much filament.

If you are not familiar, BYOK is a series of katana's where the guards, wraps and pommels are interchangeable so you can build your own katana with different parts. Th...

Collapsing Fidget

I made this for the fun of it a couple months ago. I figured I might as well release it because its pretty fun to play with. Its small but not a quick print because all the walls. Have fun!

 

Wado Ichimonji Collapsing Sword

The cap on the replaceable blade version of this sword is not glued on but is removable by squeezing its sides, the blades then can be printed separately and inserted or replaced.

The multi-part version of the sword has been broken down to different parts so they can be printed separately in different colors and assembled.  The multi-color and multi-color/part versions are similar but the wrap is printed separately on the muti-part/color version. This version will waist a little l...

Kit Fisto's Collapsing Lightsaber

This is a multi-part design where the hilt is split into different stl's so it can be printed in full color without supports with a single color printer. The cap screws on so the blades can be printed separately in different colors and inserted or replaced.

Supports are not required, for best results use a .4mm nozzle. You can print the blades all at once concentrically or one at a time in vase mode. I suggest printing in vase mode but if printing concentrically, the test print can be...

Modular Lightsaber Wall Mount

This stand is modular, you can make it hold two to as many lightsabers as you like. You just need a top and bottom, add a middle sections if you want it to hold more than two. Each section is bolted to each other using M3 x 16mm screws and nuts, they could be glued together too. There is a flat section all the way around the inside for mounting of sticky backed LED strip lighting. I used 24v Blue LED's(aff) I had left over f...

Giyu's Collapsing Sword

The cap for the replaceable blade versions of this sword is not glued on but is removable by squeezing its sides, the blades then can be printed separately and inserted or replaced.

The multi-part version of the sword has been broken down to different parts so they can be printed separately in different colors then glued together.  The multi-color and multi-color/part versions are similar but the wrap is printed separately on the muti-part/color version. This version will waist a...

Gift Box #20

Pulling out two sides of the bow on this box releases all four catches allowing the box top to be pulled off. The seam is hidden under the center of the bow so there are no visible clues.

Printing
Its roughly 100mm x 100m x 80mm tall. The top prints in place as one part with no supports, designed for a .4mm nozzle. The bow and ribbons for the top are printed separately and are glued on. I used Starbond's Thi...

Gift Box #19

This box opens by pushing the correct side ribbon in. This pulls in detents on both sides of the box. The ribbon seam is hidden under the bow so its hard to tell which ribbon you need to push.

Printing
Its roughly 100mm x 100m x 80mm tall. The top prints in place as one part with no supports, designed for a .4mm nozzle. The bow and ribbons for the top are printed separately and are glued on. I used Starbo...

Gift Box #18

I was so happy to figure out a completely new mechanism for this box! To open it, you slimily pull the box top apart in the correct orientation to release the detents allowing the top to come off. Since the box top is divided in the middle, the slot is hidden from view under the ribbons and bows. This was actually a very confusing box to design since the top is just one half rotated on itself.

Printing
Its roughly 100mm x 100m x 80mm tall. The top prints in place ...

Collapsing Clearance Test Print

This print is used to gauge your success when printings a print-in-place collapsing sword or lightsaber. Each ring has a different amount of clearance.  How many rings are free after printing will tell you what clearance your printer is capable of. The rings should easily fall out and not be attached with any stringing. 

I design the blades with .5mm of clearance. If your printer can print a clearance of .5mm, or better yet .4mm, you should have a very high rate of success. &...

Gift Box #17

This box is a mashup between box #1 and #12. When you turn the bow on this box it rotates a gear pinion which moves in four gear racks retracting catches allowing the top of the box to be removed.

Printing
Its roughly 100mm x 100m x 80mm tall. The top prints in place as one part with no supports, designed for a .4mm nozzle. The bow and ribbons for the top are printed separately and are glued on. I used Sta...

Needle Sword

I had a request for Nubari or the Needle sword from Naruto. Despite there not being a lot of detail, this is a relay fun sword to play with. It even uses the standard lightsaber blade. The loop threads on and its really easy to print in two colors.

There is a replaceable blade and a print in place version.

Supports are not required, for best results use a .4mm nozzle. You can print the blades all at once concentrically or one at a time in vase mode. I suggest printing in vase ...

Gift Box #16

I present to you, the first gift box of 2024 ! This box has a cam connected to the center portion of the bow so when turned, it pushes out the top ribbons and the catch allowing the box top to be pulled off.

WARNING You will need to use a lubricant of some kind to reduce the cam friction so it turns more easily. I suggest PTFE Lubricate Spray(aff). Its a thin spray that dry's but doesn't seem to...

Plo Koon's Collapsing Lightsaber

Sorry for the delay posting this, I'm hooked designing gift boxes. I'm really enjoying it, they are going to be really good this year. You can expect the first one to be released very soon.

I've gotten plenty of requests for this lightsaber. Its a multi-part version. The cap threads on so the blades can be printed separately. Some parts are glued on but there are locators for all the parts. I manually changed the filament at different layer heights to get the full color hilt.
...

Collapsing Rondel Dagger #1

I always liked this style of dagger but I know I couldn't make a print-in-place version of it because it would require supports under the pommel. I realized though that I could still make a multi-part version were the pommel would screw on. With a simple color swap after the guard, you can get a different color wrap. This is a very basic version of the dagger as I wanted to verify that the concept would work. Expect the next version to be more detailed.

Supports are not required, for...

Dual Mini Gear Fidget

I had a request to shrink the Mini Gear Fidget down to two gears instead of its original four so its even quicker to print. Now it only takes 8g of filament each. The two gears and shaft rotate independent of each other without supports, use a .4mm nozzle. Its a good as test print or for giveaways especially in Polymaker Luminous Rainbow glow in the dark PLA. If you have not seen this filament...

ELG-3A Blaster

Bonus Model! My daughter needed this blaster for her Padme costume for Halloween. Its split apart for easy printing with no supports. There is also a version with a longer barrel, I printed her the shorter version because it would be more durable.

Collapsing Tritana

Sorry for delaying last weeks weapon... Just when I got the design done except for the last part, the wrap. I immediately realized that I wasn't not sure how to model it.... I know I'll eventually figure it out but until then, here is the Tritana! Its a katana hilt with a three edged blade.

Since I was behind, I should not have picked a sword with a new blade design. It took a bit to get it just right so I only had time to make a single design. Its BYOK style so expect different desig...

Kanan Jarrus Collapsing Lightsaber

There is only a multi-part version of this lightsaber. All the parts have locators so its pretty easy to glue them together. You will need to do some manual/automatic filament swaps on the hilt to get it in full color.

Supports are not required, for best results use a .4mm nozzle. You can print the blades all at once concentrically or one at a time in vase mode. I suggest printing in vase mode but if printing concentrically, the test print can be found 2024-10-06 23:35:35 +0000 UTC View Post

Collapsing Sword

The cap for the replaceable blade versions of this sword is not glued on but is removable by squeezing its sides, the blades then can be printed separately and inserted or replaced. The multi-part version of the sword has been broken down to different parts so they can be printed separately in different colors then glued together.

There are five versions of this sword:

• Print-in-Place Single Color

• Print-in-Place Multi-Color (requires a MMU, AMS, IDEX, or To...

  2024-09-25 01:39:41 +0000 UTC View Post

Build your own Viking Sword #3

This is the third sword in the Build your Own Viking Sword series. Its a modular sword system similar to Build Your Own Katana but in a Viking sword style. The guard, pommel and wrap on each sword are different and interchangeable with the others.

Supports are not required, for best results use a .4mm nozzle. You can print the blades all at once concentrically or one at a time in vase mode. I suggest printing in vase mode but if printing concentrically, the test print can be found 2024-09-17 00:07:38 +0000 UTC View Post