Big Wall #9 of 14 - http://www.bigwalls.com
Patron Early Access Link To All Videos https://www.hownot2.com/post/big-wall-bible-early-access
Anchors can be the leak in your time boat. You can lose so much time if you don't have anchor skills dialed. If you can't build the anchor quickly, if heavy stuff smashes d...
2022-11-02 13:43:08 +0000 UTC View Post
PATRONS: I've been stoked for this one a long time. Sat on this fully edited for MONTHS so it would be more seasonally relevant but it's finally getting cold out so here it is. This was a lot of planning just to be able to do strong pull tests without capstans, vehicles pulling, piston equipment and we threw the dice on this project and it worked. This edit was also an experiment in taking a 22 minute really good video and taking 4 hours to cut another 2.5 minutes out to mak...
2022-10-29 14:11:30 +0000 UTC View Post
Big Wall #8 of 14 - http://www.bigwalls.com
Patron Early Access Link To All Videos https://www.hownot2.com/post/big-wall-bible-early-access
Leading is a methodical and repetitive motion if done correctly. Get as high as you can on your aiders, place your gear, bounce test it, commit to it, get off your last piece and...
2022-10-26 13:42:34 +0000 UTC View Post
Tonsai, Krabi, Thailand is a climbing mecca and has beautiful and unique climbing. The overhanging limestone cliffs remind me of an outdoor cave without mud. Here is some beta if you are planning to go there I hope makes your trip easier for planning.
1-Get the f*** out of Bangkok - nothing worth seeing there for the pita for getting around
2-If you buy cheap flights, make sure you have enough baggage allowance. Paying for excess luggage for VietJet ...
2022-10-22 13:33:13 +0000 UTC View Post
Big Wall Bible #7 of 14 - http://www.bigwalls.com
Patron Early Access Link To All Videos https://www.hownot2.com/post/big-wall-bible-early-access
It's "knot" that hard to learn how to twist your rope in all the ways you need to go up a wall. This ties together a foundation for the next chapters so we can just show yo...
2022-10-19 13:07:34 +0000 UTC View Post
We drop-tested and slow-pulled old cams donated by Timothy Neidmeyer, Bobby Hutton and Eric Nies. The ultralights were purchased in 2017 and were in a house fire where they got smoke and water damage which is why they are all rusty. The ultralights are 25% lighter than the latest C4s and one weight-saving feature is 12 braid Dyneema as the stem instead of a steel cable. I emailed Black Diamond to see if I could get any of their engineers to help us understand this unique use...
2022-10-14 13:00:08 +0000 UTC View Post
Big Wall Bible #6 of 14 - http://www.bigwalls.com
Patron Early Access Link To All Videos https://www.hownot2.com/post/big-wall-bible-early-access
How do you place all that gear you are carrying? Do you need to have a trad climbing background where you already know how to place cams and nuts? It helps, but isn't that ...
2022-10-12 13:00:13 +0000 UTC View Post
I modified the bolt buster tension tester to test how much force the YABR (Yet Another Bolt Remover) can generate and it's a lot. It broke the bolt but I was twisting hard at 23.82kN or 5,354lbf! This is why you have to score, or aggressively spin, a bolt before pulling so the wedge doesn't get engaged because this can generate enough force to snap the bolt and make your existing hole unusable.
Fixe sells this for $390 at 2022-10-08 16:36:59 +0000 UTC View Post
Big Wall Bible #5 of 14 - http://www.bigwalls.com
Patron Early Access Link To All Videos https://www.hownot2.com/post/big-wall-bible-early-access
What gear do you need to lead while aid climbing? A whole lot! We'll show you our racks if you show us yours. WHAT do we carry and WHY and HOW.
ðŸ‘...
2022-10-05 13:01:05 +0000 UTC View Post
I'm stoked so I thought I'd share it with my patrons. One door closed and a really cool one opened. I am going to Black Diamonds QA headquarters tomorrow at SLC and getting to interview the inventors of the Ultralight C4s. I have tested a few ULs and normal C4s in the drop tower and it's good but not as good of an episode as getting to talk to people who really know literally everything about gear, since they designed it. 12 braid dyneema isn't found anywhere else in c...
2022-09-29 22:29:01 +0000 UTC View Post
Big Wall Bible #4 of 14 - http://www.bigwalls.com
Patron Early Access Link To All Videos https://www.hownot2.com/post/big-wall-bible-early-access
Existing in a vertical world is an art and honestly one of the coolest forms of camping. But you don't know what you don't know if you haven't done it, so hopefully, this w...
2022-09-28 12:26:42 +0000 UTC View Post
Big Wall Bible #3 of 14 - http://www.bigwalls.com
Patron Early Access Link To All Videos https://www.hownot2.com/post/big-wall-bible-early-access
You have 1 bag with 1 compartment, how are you going to pack it? Haul bags are not like other backpacks so it's worth spending a chapter and showing you how to connect it, ...
2022-09-21 13:41:22 +0000 UTC View Post
TO PATRONS: Every video I produce has a reason and value but some I know are going to be more popular of a topic, are intriguing what we caught on camera, and have a good storyline. This kind episode is what I call GOLD and I wish they were all this good. Jenny helps narrate it and that helps jump the scene around while still explaining WHY and HOW knot pro are a thing. We crammed 25 tests in 17 minutes. The plugs are just text on screen over funny parts and don't kill...
2022-09-16 14:25:04 +0000 UTC View Post
Big Wall Bible #2 of 14 - http://www.bigwalls.com
Patron Early Access Link To All Videos https://www.hownot2.com/post/big-wall-bible-early-access
I know you are excited to get on the rock but you have a LOT of prep ahead of you in order to live in a vertical world for several days. This is your 2nd NON-SEXY big wall ...
2022-09-14 14:29:33 +0000 UTC View Post
Big Wall Bible #1 of 14 - http://www.bigwalls.com
Patron Early Access Link To All Videos https://www.hownot2.com/post/big-wall-bible-early-access
The number one thing that can cause you to bail and fail on a big wall is poor planning, getting late starts from difficult Yosemite logistics, bad weather, or bad partners...
2022-09-07 13:01:05 +0000 UTC View Post
6 months of planning, 60 days of type 2 fun, 100+ hours of filming and 200-300 hours of editing and I now present to you The Big Wall Bible. It is just the beginning and you'll see I'm still working on the blogs. This link is a COPY of the Big Wall Bible but gives you access to ALL 14 VIDEOS. https://www.hownot2.com/post/big-wall-bible-early-access
It is exciting to a...
2022-09-07 04:40:07 +0000 UTC View Post
I redesigned our entire website from scratch and coded a 3 layer filter to organize our 400 episodes which are (soon) all in written form. We have 3 courses live and our 4th course is coming out in 2 days. I've been doing this for 6 years now and it's amazing to see how far it has come but we got a long way to go. Thanks for joining me on this journey of breaking gear fear.
Our website https://www.howno...
2022-09-05 13:01:04 +0000 UTC View Post
When I'm posting only 1x per week, you know I'm pretty busy behind the scenes. It was crazy to put the pressure of making the new website live at the same time of releasing 14 big wall episodes but I've been working on this for 9 months and it's super good enough to be live. In fact, it's 10x better than the last website even with is minor flaws and not all the blogs uploaded yet. We custom coded the content page to have a store type filter, but for the blogs, so you can act...
2022-09-02 19:54:12 +0000 UTC View Post
EARLY ACCESS
Bobby and John broke some cave anchors. They tested the Climbing Technology's Soft Anchors and also the homemade ones by Andrzej Rudkowski.
CT dyneema broke at 14kn and rethreaded with Max sk99 4mm broke at 16kn and in tension broke at 11kn.
Soft Shackle homemade anchor broke the metal round stock at 18kn, then the soft shackle at 23kn and then the bolt itself at 25kn but when pulled in tension, the soft shackle destroys the...
2022-08-29 13:01:04 +0000 UTC View Post
EARLY ACCESS!
Dyneema or HPME comes in all sorts of qualities labeled as SK this or SK that. What do they mean and how much do they affect strength. We also test generic HMPE that I joke is chineema and is sold on ebay and amazon because a lot of us wonder how good that stuff is. Strength isn't the only factor you should base your purchase decisions on, the cheap stuff loses a ton of strength when you actually use it as seen in our other video at 2022-08-23 00:24:18 +0000 UTC View Post
Wow, that was harder than any big wall I've climbed. 100+ hours of filming, 200+ hours of editing while getting the new website to launch in 10 days from now was a lot of work but wow, it turned out really good. 14 videos are a part of the official original big wall series that just is to get the Big Wall Bible started. We already have supplemental videos clips filmed for the BWB and got submissions from Zabrok and others. BigWall.com is going to be donated to this pro...
2022-08-22 19:24:06 +0000 UTC View Post
EARLY ACCESS: This is what I'm posting tomorrow. I'm tinkering with format for knot specific videos. Showing how to tie it, application, untie test, and failure tests. This one is a simple version. I have a more complex butterfly coming out soon. I really wanted to release a drop tower cam video but it is only half edited and I'm almost done on the 2nd pass of all the big wall videos. My new website might be live in a week and the test audience versio...
2022-08-16 17:59:32 +0000 UTC View Post
PATRONS: Doing blogs for each video really helps share information that is difficult to articulate in a video I'm trying to keep fast paced and interesting even though it's real nerdy. I'm excited that the new website will allow me to do this for every video. It also allows me to update any new information I get after posting or in this case, after uploading but not able to alter the video. The video is super good enough but putting this information out in the world always b...
2022-08-10 13:29:34 +0000 UTC View Post
PATRON BEHIND THE SCENES: I edit in batches what I filmed in batches so I'm excited to do a whole bunch of drop tower stuff. Matt is a local-to-the-lab fire fighter who came down and shared gear fear among some fire fighters. Falling on ascenders crosses over in a lot of sports so here you have it. I'm 95% done with 6 of 12 big wall episodes, cover of Big Wall Bible is designed, and a really cool el capitan fractal design is being made for a shirt. I had high expectati...
2022-08-03 13:03:25 +0000 UTC View Post
EARLY ACCESS - COMES OUT TOMORROW - I've been working on 3 dyneema break test videos and they all have some gold sprinkled in them all. Thank you for your support because this is how NOT to get sponsored. I hope Teufelberger doesn't get too mad but they probably ought to change their pdf instructions.
I was just trying to test tapers and how much of a difference it made and then Teufelberger's splice came undone. BLOG HAS MORE DETAILS & DATA 2022-07-27 00:43:46 +0000 UTC View Post
It's a known fact that anyone taking a photo of a spreadsheet to share with people for no other reason than they are excited... is a nerd.
Before I nerd out on you, I want to thank you so much for either having had supported me or just signed on. I went from 260ish patrons to now 442 in under 2 weeks. I have a glimpse of hope of being able to take a break AND meet my goals of Breaking Gear Fear for All Extreme Sports. Having 1000 patrons will allow me to do all ...
2022-07-23 01:55:53 +0000 UTC View Post
EARLY ACCESS: I finally got a video done in advance! This is going out Wednesday. Just officially hired an editor and instagram manager and once that is done, I can start working on the Big Wall Course.
We broke 12 locking carabiners all lined up from weakest to strongest. They did not break in that order though! These carabiners have different gates and we show them to you before breaking them. It's a hybrid between a buying guide and teaching what HMS lockers a...
2022-07-15 21:47:18 +0000 UTC View Post
Just finished filming 9 days to get 30 hours of footage to be cut down to about 12x 1 hour videos on How NOT 2 Big Wall. This is a screen shot of the intro where Ryan 1 is hazing Ryan 2 while he is "training" for a big wall. Very fun to film and sadly very realistic to what big walling is actually like haha. That comes out this Fall.
This weekend I will choose a web designer from 5 people I've interviewed. I'm aiming to make a very professional looking website to...
2022-07-14 15:36:00 +0000 UTC View Post
PATRONS: Today (Wednesday) I'm all finished filming the big wall course with Jeremiah. 30 hours of footage that will be cut into 12x 1 hour episodes and take about 100ish hours of editing. The Big Wall Bible is going to be a place on our website that our audience can contribute their ideas and tricks to become a multi-contributor resource. Anyways, it's rad... I'm stoked.
King County Explorer Search and Rescue was kind enough to let me film one of their training...
2022-07-13 13:01:04 +0000 UTC View Post
PATRONS: worked on this until the last minute so couldn't do early access but our big project right now is How NOT 2 Big Wall course and we are putting tons of thought into it before shooting to be even better than our last course. New website design is mocked up in photoshop and all coding is done. I'm just looking for a fiverr type person to do the actual making of the site so I can focus on editing what I have in the queue. I'm also working on a labjack load cell for a fu...
2022-07-06 14:14:40 +0000 UTC View Post