The rule supposedly is that you want a friction hitch to be 3mm smaller than the diameter of rope you are trying to grab and to use 3 wraps. We did a bunch of tests and here are the numbers:
4MM PARACORD: *Prusik 3.74kN *Klemheist 3.34kN *Auto Block 3 wraps - slips at 1.34kN, 4 wraps - slips at 5.32kn *Paracord doubled twice 8.90kN *Paracord in a loop 4.06kN
5MM ACCESSORY CORD: *Prusik 8.16kN and 5.36kn *Klemheist 7kN-ish Slips and locked off and broke at 11.62kN *Auto Block: 3 wraps - 0.36kN Slips / 4 wraps - 3.62kn Slips
7MM ACCESSORY CORD: *Prusik 7.9kN and 5.18kN *Klemheist 3.3kN Slips *Auto Block: 4 wraps - 0.8kN Slips
HOLLOW BLOCK 14KN MBS: *Prusik 5.84kn *Auto Block: 3 wraps - 0.42kN Slips / 4 wraps - 1.38kn Slips
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00:00 What are friction Hitches 03:37 4MM Tests 05:08 5MM Tests 07:29 7MM Tests 08:53 10mm on 10mm Test 09:50 Hollow Block 10:53 Conclusion