The Makera Air CNC comes with some sample projects and one is an LED Board to light up an acrylic display. I milled the board today and it went well. It performed a 5x5 point autolevel and automatic Z-Offset. So far I’m really happy with the results.
It’s really quiet for a CNC. I could talk on my cell phone while sitting next to it. Stay tuned for more for more detail.
It’s small but incredible. I am so impressed with the features on this little printer. It’s becoming my go to for many projects. It even caught a print popping off the bed and prevented a filament blob before it built up around the nozzle. Even my more expensive machines can’t do that. I’ve had that happen to three K1’s without any warning.
I wish they were more open source but those days, it appears, are fading fast unless you want to build a Voron.
And now the A1 Mini is on sale for $179 at BambuLab site. Even my local Microcenter has them at that price with a 15 day return policy if you change you don’t like it or get a dud. If you were looking to get someone a low cost printer for Christmas, I highly recommend this.
I have no affiliate link, not getting paid for this, I just think this a great way to get more people successfully into 3D Printing.
I haven’t played with the optional multicolor AMS Lite unit yet but it’s nice to have that option to print four colors as well. I’ll be doing more with that in future videos.
I’ve received a few heavy machines to try out. The Creality K2 multi color printer and the Carvera Air CNC which I plan to test its PCB board milling capability.
These are both like a box of bricks to move when in the box. Hopefully they are a bit lighter one I get them out of the box.
I also have my Prusa XL setup awaiting its first print. It’s also large and heavy. I had some issues getting it put together. A defective tool head mechanism was one that is being corrected by Prusa support. Also had an LCD ribbon cable connected backward but I was able to fix that myself. Prusa support is looking into that as well.
So I’ll be busy this month. If you have questions about these let me know in comments to this post.
I added my Programming PICs in PICBASIC book to the list of books in the Gold Level Tutorial section of the CHEPCLUB.com site. This book steps you thru getting started with the PICBASIC compiler with 8 simple projects. The hardware used is an 8-pin PIC12F683 microcontroller and a PICkit 2 Clone programmer.
The component list for the projects are list at the back on the book. You can download it as a .pdf so you can read it on your computer, ipad, etc. or print it out. You can even search it for specific topics. All much better than a printed book.
I am working on a version of this book for GCBASIC compiler which is actually more powerful than the PICBASIC compiler but both are easy to work with. I use them both.
3D Printing will always be a large part of it, but I want to expand my electronics design content. I really enjoy creating small microcontroller based designs. I also have a benchtop Makera CNC coming to try out their PCB milling capability.
I want to show how anyone can now make excellent electronics based projects/products at home with the low cost electronics, 3D Printers and desktop CNC machines available to everyone.
My favorite electronics programmer is the open source PICkit 2. Microchip quit making it many years ago. But because the design is open source, you can buy clones everywhere. In fact I even designed my own. It’s like the original RepRap programmer as you need a programmer to load the program on the internal chip if you want to build your own.
The starter kit version included a development board that could program 8, 14 and 20 pin PIC microntrollers. I used it in a couple of my C books. Its layout is open source as well so I reproduced it.
It was one of the most popular hobbyist kits before Arduino hit the market.
I plan to reintroduce this on my channel as some point. It’s a great low cost way to create electronic designs. Is this something anybody might be interested in?
Patreon is requiring me to switch to subscription billing. It doesn’t change any charges to you it just means your card will be charged on same day of month that you originally subscribed.
This will happen beginning in November, 2024.
“If a creator has subscription billing enabled, members are billed when they join a creator’s membership and then on the same day of each month thereafter. For example, if a member joins on the 5th of a month, they’ll be billed on the 5th of each month thereafter.”
I appreciate everyone who supports my efforts here. I am working on added content including more electronics it’s just taking longer than I expected.
This post also allows me to state how much I appreciate your support. With the economy and inflation affecting things, having your support allows me to keep funding the CHEPCLUB.com website, all the costs associated with YouTube and more.
I hate making videos like my latest release but they continued to push me to release it despite my objections that the machine had issues that still needed fixing. So I was honest and finally shared my experience.
I won’t be working with them anytime soon. I just hope nobody spends their money to get the same experience.
Sovol did respond publicly on X after watching the video.
In my latest video I mis-read the license on the dice spinner and created a remix version of an 8-Ball. As soon as I discovered it, I took the video down.
I had spent the $10/month and joined the creators membership at Thangs.com which gave me commercial rights to sell printed versions which I thought included remix but that still didn’t allow any remixes and I missed that point. Thangs.com let me know of the error.
So I edited out the 8-Ball portion and released the corrected version under a new thumbnail and title to eliminate any confusion.
Mistakes happen and this one was on me. I corrected it and still was able to deliver the two-color without AMS story which was the main point anyway. I still like their designs and recommend the print.
Sovol recently went on Twitter/X and publicly tried to shame me for not releasing a video on their SV08. I’m lucky enough to get printers to test. They sent me an SV08 back in March and I’ve been testing it. I’m not sponsored by them in any way other than the free printer.
It’s a big (350x350) and fast printer but the quality I’m getting is average to poor. My K1’s and Bambulab machines print just as fast and much better. They keep pushing me to release a video but I’m trying to make sure it’s not me screwing up.
I tried to print the Hot Wheels track in my latest video and the pictures above show the results. The K1 Max results were much better. The SV08 versions are just not useable.
So it could be I got a bad machine. I’ve tried various profiles. But I can’t get it to work reliably for me.
And the issues are not something I can ask them to fix. It looks like it’s working as expected.
I’ll have to release the video soon and it won’t be pretty.
My latest video had two topics covered and I apparently chose the wrong one for the thumbnail. Initially the video thumbnail focused on the 1st layer issue I had on the A1 mini. The video views started out good but then went flat.
So I remade the thumbnail based on the 2nd topic, 3D Printing your own breadboard, and the video is doing better and the comments are a lot nicer.
It’s all part of the YouTube game. The video never changed. It’s all part of the behind the scenes work I do to get my message out.
I found a dual color filament from RepRapper on Amazon. It stated it was red/blue so I tested it on a Spider-Man bust. The red was very faint but the blue looked good. Here’s a quick video of it.
I added the files for my Arduino and 3D Printing project used to make a Hot Wheels style automated starter gate. They are in the electronics section on CHEPCLUB.com.
This is Tinkercad codeblock generates drawers with dividers so you can download and print or add to Tinkercad as an object.
The download includes a .pdf of instructions and a link to the TInkercad CHEP Drawer Generator.
Log into TInkercad and then click on the link in the .pdf and it will take you to the Code Block Drawer Generator Screen. Click on Copy and TInker to get your own copy to modify and use as you want to create your own custom storage drawers.
IF you have any questions, contact me at chelleb1@yahoo.com
Get Started with Arduino without any Hardware using the Chapters from my Book:
Arduino - A Beginner's Guide to Programming Electronics
This download includes chapters 8,9 and 10 of my book.
Included are four .PDF documents. Each document is a chapter with details about the projects and a link to the circuit in TInkercad Circuits so you can run, simulate and modify the project without the need for any actual hardware.
(Tinkercad Circuits is free but you must create an account to use it)
This .zip file includes:
Chapter 8 - Sensing Light
Chapter 9 - Creating Sound
Chapter 10 - Dimming with PWM
Get Started with Arduino without any Hardware using the Chapters from my Book:
Arduino - A Beginner's Guide to Programming Electronics
This download includes chapters 5 thru 7 of my book.
Included are four .PDF documents. Each document is a chapter with details about the projects and a link to the circuit in TInkercad Circuits so you can run, simulate and modify the project without the need for any actual hardware.
(Tinkercad Circuits is free but you must create an account to use it)
This .zip file includes:
Chapter 5 - Scroll LEDs
Chapter 6 - Sensing a Switch
Chapter 7 - Read a Potentiometer
Get Started with Arduino without any Hardware using the Chapters from my Book:
Arduino - A Beginner's Guide to Programming Electronics
This download includes the first four chapters of my book.
Included are four .PDF documents. Each document is a chapter with details about the projects and a link to the circuit in TInkercad Circuits so you can run, simulate and modify the project without the need for any actual hardware.
(Tinkercad Circuits is free but you must create an account to use it)
This .zip file includes:
Chapter 1 - What is Arduino
Chapter 2 - Flash an External LED
Chapter 3 - Train Crossing
Chapter 4 - LED Traffic Light
Get my five most popular Cura V5.x PETG Profiles in one download:
1) Best 0.12 Layer Height
2) Good 0.20 Layer Height
3) Extra Fast 0.12 Layer Height
4) Extra Fast 0.20 Layer Height
5) Extra Fast 0.28 Layer Height
To load the profiles in Cura.
1) Download and save the .zip file to your computer
2) Unzip the file and you will see a folder with three Cura Profiles
3) Open Cura and go to main menu and click on Preferences then Configure Cura
4) The Preferences window will open, click on Profiles in the left menu
5) The Profile page will show up and then click on the Import Button
6) Find the profiles you downloaded and load them one by one
7) Use a Creality Machine profile to use the profiles (I recommend an Ender 3 machine profile and just resize it to whatever machine you are using)
There are two files required.
1) First run the FF_M0_bed_level.gcode file on your Ender 3 or any similar size printer with an 8-Bit board. Adjust each corner by running a piece of paper or Filament Friday sticker under the nozzle until you can barely move it then click the LCD knob to advance to the next corner.
2) Then run the FF_bed_level_print.gcode file and live adjust or "adjust on the fly" the bed level knobs to get as close to a level bed as possible. The print will continue multiple layers but you can stop the print at any time and then you are ready to 3D print without worrying about bed level.
I also include the FF_bed_level_print.stl if you want to slice it yourself.
32-Bit Ender 3 V2 and newer Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro - For newer printers, Creality is now installing 32-Bit boards in the machine and running Marlin 2.0,x firmware. Some of these setups don't recognize the M10 command so I've created a FF_M25_bed_level.gcode version for these. It works the same but instead of just clicking the LCD knob you have to go into the print menu and select Resume Print to advance to the next corner.
Also included in the .zip are bed level files for smaller Ender 2 printers (180x180 bed), Ender 3 Max (300x300 bed) and one for the older CR-10 printers.
This includes a 0.20 and 0.28 layer height profile for TPU. You can use it as is for direct drive but can also be used for Bowden style you just have to increase the retraction to 6 mm.
These will work on many printers, Creality, Elegoo, etc. just start with a Creality Machine profile in Cura and then add the profile.
Unzip and install the profiles in Cura.
Get my three most popular Cura V5.4+ Profiles in one download:
1) Best 0.12 Layer Height
2) Good 0.20 Layer Height
3) Extra Fast 0.28 Layer Height
To load the profiles in Cura.
1) Download and save the .zip file to your computer
2) Unzip the file and you will see a folder with three Cura Profiles
3) Open Cura and go to main menu and click on Preferences then Configure Cura
4) The Preferences window will open, click on Profiles in the left menu
5) The Profile page will show up and then click on the Import Button
6) Find the profiles you downloaded and load them one by one
7) Use a Creality Machine profile to use the profiles (I recommend an Ender 3 machine profile and just resize it to whatever machine you are using)
I’ve been working on more Beginner Arduino projects I found this awesome free online tool for creating custom characters on an LCD module. You can create the custom character in blocks and the tool automatically creates the Arduino code. I even used it on my phone in landscape mode to create a custom CHEP.
Check it out if you’re into Arduino, and if you’re looking to getting into electronics, let me know in the comments because it’s slowly becoming a bigger part of the channel as I go forward because in my mind, Electronics and 3D Printing go together like peanut butter and jelly.
I got another Creality K1C I’m testing. I also added a textured PEI bed that I ran a first print. So far I’m really liking the K1C/K1Max. The original K1 was about 90% complete but the K1C/K1Max have been excellent. I really like the time lapse feature built in.
I’ll have more on the channel soon. I’m going to start releasing videos randomly instead of just Fridays. So stay tuned for more and Thank You for all your support.
I took a break from videos while I travelled with my son. He plays hockey for the NHL Jets and every few years we get to tag along. It was a great time but exhausting. I came back and caught a cold. I hope to have a video out this Friday. Thank You for your support!
I got to see the Bambulab A1 in person at my local Microcenter store. They couldn’t reveal pricing until tomorrow but I got to play with it. It seems like a decent bedslinger.
I think the A1 will do fine but it didn’t blow me away with print quality. If it does come in at $399 for machine and $559 with AMS, as expected, then it should do well in the market.
I also found out Microcenter had the Ender 3 V3 SE in stock for $169 so I bought another one. Couldn’t pass up that deal. They also had the K1 Max in stock for $699. I couldn’t afford that but that’s a great deal as well.
I was able to print a 20 minute 3D Benchy and take it home for comparison.