My lovely cat (though looks like a little deamon under the IR light) once in a while brings in a mouse totally unhurt and release it inside. (on the other side of that cat door is a catio, basically a decent size caged area). For a whil...
On discord @thisiscam mentioned that nozzle mount are usually more accurate (less bias) but also more noisy (more variance)
After testing one nozzle mount he found that it would rotate even after being secured or while securing, so I made one with "arms" specifically for the Apollo that helps it keep it in place and oriented correctly regarding the X axis. Remove the silicon sock. This should work with V6/dragon/Rapido/Dragonfly BMO/ Top mounted Spider v3 pro. ...
2023-06-14 03:33:41 +0000 UTC View Post
For those not on discord I realized that I haven't really posted the list of updates done to the Apollo lately. And even for those on discord, the incremental tweaks may have gotten lost in the threads. So here they are.
All of these are now updated to latest body and backplate
(to give you an idea of the work I just did that's 299 individual STLs exported)
All of which support Orbiter 1.5, Orbiter 2.0, Sherpa Mini, Sherpa Micro, VzHextrudor...
2023-06-10 05:10:05 +0000 UTC View Post
Courtesy of George aka GxG on discord, he enjoyed the community on discord associated with my patreon so much that he is pre-releasing this design here.
Here is his printables.com page if you want to check out his other designs!
This is made to fit a MantaM8P, the largest (mainstream) board made by BTT, so as you can imag...
Currently only for Spider Pro v3, orbiter 2.0 , but can be adapted, by request, to any currently supported ApolloLander hotend.
Need new backplate new main body and new ducts, Apollo accessories like camera or nozzle light and chains are compatible.
CAD model I found didn't match official 2D cad, so make sure they are M3 top mounting holes and not smaller.
Use M3x20 to mount the hotend (top mounted like a rapido/dragon)
Not y...
2023-06-05 05:31:06 +0000 UTC View Post
Consider this Beta until tested and making sure holes align up on the under side
Currently only Mosquito Magnum & orbiter2.0 (+bowden option), but I now have workflow ready for any hotend conversion from ApolloLander to ApolloExoslide by request.
I had made an old one for rapido but this was improved based on Jericon's feedback about having some torsion, so now inherited a similar setup as the Apollo on Rails with back under tabs for...
2023-06-04 20:00:40 +0000 UTC View Post
If you want to control your printer PSU or leds with a relay and optionally with a physical temporary switch button. Here is some info I found and compiled
First, what not to do:
Don't connect a 10~15amp relay on the 24v side of the PSU, the amperage is in most cases too high (340w/24v=14amp), you would need a 20~25amp to play it safe.
With LED make sure the amperage going through the relay is at most 70~80% of ...
2023-06-02 01:12:41 +0000 UTC View PostAs those of you on discord know, I'm using Orcaslicer these days
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For those that don't know about OrcaSlicer, it's based on BambuSlicer which itself is based on PrusaSlicer. SuperSlicer used to be the go to but development has dramatically slowed down and kinda behind all the other.
But OrcaSlicer is in super active development, and they made a breaking change that hid all the old custom profile in v1.6.3
I didn't really see any info about it (except 2023-05-31 00:46:14 +0000 UTC View Post
This is based on the latest Apollo backplate.
Also has the optional Apollo fan mod (swapping the cover of the right fan, GDStime and Sunon included)
This matches the Voron Afterburner belt path, with front mounted rail
So technically could be used on a Voron maybe ???
Main body is tweaked so slightly different...
This was a request, I don't have those in hand, they seem very handy as an interface between the printer board and the printer
This also could be use to cram in regular connector and hide the mess, there are 10 opening on top/bottom
box is meant to be secured with M3 t-nuts and m3 screws
For this type of connectors
40mm long
9 wide
15mm t...
2023-05-10 03:35:01 +0000 UTC View Post
Make sure you have a good clean surface and perfect mesh before printing, as the first layer is intricate.
6mm thick, with 4mm clearance between fan and grill.
Use regular self tapping screws like used on computers.
I use this on my printer PSU, and now my fingers don't get sliced!
I use the Arctic 120mm silent model for the ender PSU, as even at full speed it's super quiet and offers plenty of cooling for the PSU (2023-05-03 05:05:32 +0000 UTC
View Post
UNTESTED for now, will update when tested
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As long as you are a patron, feel free to sell printed version of those (please don't distribute or sell the digital files)
(also included a no logo model)
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For a ARRMA 40mmØ motor (62mm long) fan mount used in some remote controlled cars.
dual 4010 and dual 4020 mount
Print should not need any print support.
PETG or better for the clip pa...
First of all thank you for your support, without it most of these project would remain in their infancy and limited to my printer setup, some project would not even exist.
The shop page has the latest version.of the Apollo and other projects (feel free to request STEP files if not present)
https://www.patreon.com/squirrelf3d/shop
Apollo Lander 2024: 2023-04-26 01:29:28 +0000 UTC
View Post
The Nozzle cam PCB can now conformably be installed behind the left fan.
This will be Rev7 of the main body (I'm exporting each hotend model for it, but should be done in a couple days)
More detailed info on my previous post regarding the nozzle camera itself and link on my previous post,
Update:
you'll find the main body rev7 in the Apollo zip rev 44 on the main repo page
if you w...
2023-04-12 05:23:46 +0000 UTC View Post
Make sure to print the mount in black otherwise light will be diffused through the mount, and washout the picture.
Rev 4:
much safer with the ribbon
Picture in zip
REV 3:
Rev 2 mostly just makes it easier to install the inner sled (especially the printed ones which have tighter tolerance). No need to replace it with rev1 if you have it installed.
Also added an accessory clamp bases on this design by request in case you are interested, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4880836
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Normal model should work for wheels (but may not gain as much X move ...
This is now fully usable, and a few tweaks, now support for both heat inserts (4.6 and 5mm OD) increased the screen hold depth by 1mm so should be more flush
There is a braket that shifts the pi to leave room for the usb cables
To secure the Pi and bracket you'll need M2.5x6 or M2.5x8
Screw and heat inserts are totally optional for the actual case and even screen, ...
New probe with ultrafast mesh, and no contact. There was interest, took the gamble of buying it, not knowing if it would work with this setup or not. But it did!
If you want to get it, make sure to get the "normal" version. https://beacon3d.com/product/beacon/?attribute_variation=Normal
(they may ship worldwide)
Requirements,
- beacon3d probe Normal model 2023-03-21 00:32:45 +0000 UTC View Post
Different types that I quickly made and used to attach the belt.
(this is what I used to install the new belt for the new Y tensioner that bring back full Y printable area)
print at 0.2mm layer height or smaller, I would recommend 0.10~0.16
With and without heat inserts, and some without screws that just loop to secure.
screw model are M3x6 or M3x8
STEP file in the zip
This is an early test to make sure all fits.
I don't have a stock wheel setup anymore, so I can't test it.
Most important is making sure the endstop is far out enough for Apollo to trigger it before the probe mount hits the block.
If needed I can edit all the Apollo mount. With a bigger cutout
This will allow to mount for the reverse bowden attachment I recently posted.
2023-03-02 05:32:55 +0000 UTC View Post
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Update:
With replacement belt ( needs to be slightly longer than stock length ) I was able to get the full Y printable surface back all 235mm front edge to back edge.
Use the 10mm longer model for that.
Not sure if it works with wheels as is, but can adapt it, feel free to test it and let me know.
I was just made aware that ender3pro doesn't have M5 threaded holes ( 3v2 does ) so going to try and accommodate one for 3pro without needing to tap the holes.
... 2023-02-28 04:58:11 +0000 UTC View Post
This actually took many tries to get it solid, but that one has held up over time, print orientation was key
I recommend PETG for its elasticity over PLA
print with at least 3 walls/perimeters
use a brim if print fails, as it's bridging a relatively thin piece, but worth trying without first.
Use a small piece of PTFE tubing (5~7mm should be enough)
I will see if I can make a new X motor mount for wheel setup that can accommodate the same thing
the model for PC4_M6 needs a small 9.5~10mm ptfe tube sitting between the two pneumatic pieces (PC4_M6), also it's may be needed for carve out the end of the ptfe tube in a funnel shape to help guide the filament in case of small misalignments when you feed it.
Also It's best to get larger i...
2023-02-27 00:37:52 +0000 UTC View Post
Finally finished it. (and thanks to KtotheStank for testing it)
I made it so that I can relatively easily convert any Apollo currently supported hotend into one of these. So feel free to submit requests
Front fan is a 4020, but spacer included for a 4010
Currently supported
- Dragonfly BMS
- Stock Creality / Microswiss
- DropEffect XG
- Bambulab Hotend
- NF Crazy & Magnum (original not plus or pro)
- Mosquito & Mosquito Magnu...
Took the gamble of ordering a couple 4wire Sunon fan (no idea if it's genuine or not, but it feels and sounds great.)
And it paid off. It's so much better and very quiet at low RPM with no PWM noise (which come from the low kHz needed for 2wire fans generating an annoying buzz)
Aliexpress
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These fan will also work in 2 wire mode
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Right now I'm running it off th...
2023-02-15 23:54:03 +0000 UTC View Post
This is a bit specific, but can come in handy for such setup.
Meant to hold your X gantry cable bundle routed to the right side.
Simple thing, two parts, secured with a single threaded heat insert and screw M3x6
And zip tie to hold the cable on the dent.
Not sure if it will work (can't test it on my printer as I have dual belted Z installed)
Let me know if it works for you
Included the STEP file if you want to tweak it.
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This is for REV4 and 5 of the main body only
working on a new setup for the rev6 body
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Playing with it more made me break another one, I even got the lens completely detached, but was able to just stack it in and it works.
But rev1 is much kinder on the endoscope electronics
I noticed, unsurprisingly, that different endoscope ...
edit: thanks to Sethro_ who contacted bambulab we have the following info "Resistance is 100kΩ@25℃(±1%) and B-value is 3950K@25/50℃(±1%)"
And that match the klipper Generic 3950 profile.
sensor_type: Generic 3950
So you can now safely get the thermistor from bambulab
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Files are in the Apollo Zip ( ...
update:
the backtrace didn't fit (would hit the frame), so reworked it, kept the overall length the same as when installed without a brace, so should fit perfectly now.
one model without back brace, and one with the brace
will be included the next Apollo update
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The old belt worked well for most people including myself, but in an enclosed environment an issue was reported.
So this model has an optional back brace to strengthen thi...